Folks,
Oddly I have what I think is an "on-topic" post.

I have an oak topped "Peninsula" or bar in my kitchen. Despite being
oiled as specified, its started to feel a little rough in places and has
a couple of minor scratches.

What would folks recommend for re-finishing the top?

Fine Sandpaper? Wire Wool? Scrapper?

... on a similar not I have some oak veneered doors which were just left
bear. Could these be oiled? If so whats the best way to remove any
greasy finger marks? Turps?

Dave

On 26/02/2024 10:45, David Wade wrote:
> which were just left bear.

Furry ?

On 26/02/2024 12:42, mm0fmf wrote:
> On 26/02/2024 10:45, David Wade wrote:
>> which were just left bear.
>
> Furry ?
>
>
Grizzly

On 26/02/2024 14:41, Andy Bennett wrote:
> On 26/02/2024 12:42, mm0fmf wrote:
>> On 26/02/2024 10:45, David Wade wrote:
>>> which were just left bear.
>>
>> Furry ?
>>
>>
> Grizzly

And smelling strongly of salmon!

On 26/02/2024 10:45, David Wade wrote:
> Folks,
> Oddly I have what I think is an "on-topic" post.

Oh yes, I remember those :-)

> I have an oak topped "Peninsula" or bar in my kitchen. Despite being
> oiled as specified, its started to feel a little rough in places and has
> a couple of minor scratches.
>
> What would folks recommend for re-finishing the top?

Re-oil with the same product. One of the nice things about oil finishes
is the ease of touching up the finish.

> Fine Sandpaper? Wire Wool? Scrapper?

Sandpaper, or if particularly bad, then a card scraper. Beware of wire
wool on oak since any fragments of steel left can discolour the oak
black, and the steel will react with the tannins in the wood.

Apply the oil in thin coats and wire off any excess before it dries. Use
at least three coats. (you can apply additional coats relatively soon
after the previous one - hours rather than days)

> .. on a similar not I have some oak veneered doors which were just left
> bear. Could these be oiled? If so whats the best way to remove any
> greasy finger marks? Turps?

Yup, or mild detergent and water. Note that the water may raise the
grain a little, so knocking back with fine sandpaper before might be
necessary.

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

On 26/02/2024 10:45, David Wade wrote:
> Folks,
> Oddly I have what I think is an "on-topic" post.
>
> I have an oak topped "Peninsula" or bar in my kitchen. Despite being
> oiled as specified, its started to feel a little rough in places and has
> a couple of minor scratches.
>
> What would folks recommend for re-finishing the top?
>
> Fine Sandpaper? Wire Wool? Scrapper?
Any damage will need sanding (obvs.), working through the grits to about
150. For general refinishing I use scotchbrite pads, with a backing
block to avoid dishing. As JR has said - don't use steel wire wool.
>
> .. on a similar not I have some oak veneered doors which were just left
> bear. Could these be oiled? If so whats the best way to remove any
> greasy finger marks? Turps?
If they *really* are unfinished then use scotchbrite pads with white
spirit.
I've used Osmo wood wax on doors, and Fiddes oil wax on floors (because
I found an article on-line reviewing the different brands of oil
finishes and concluding that Fiddes was more robust.
>
> Dave

On 26/02/2024 16:24, John Rumm wrote:
> On 26/02/2024 10:45, David Wade wrote:
>> Folks,
>> Oddly I have what I think is an "on-topic" post.
>
> Oh yes, I remember those :-)
>
>> I have an oak topped "Peninsula" or bar in my kitchen. Despite being
>> oiled as specified, its started to feel a little rough in places and
>> has a couple of minor scratches.
>>
>> What would folks recommend for re-finishing the top?
>
> Re-oil with the same product. One of the nice things about oil finishes
> is the ease of touching up the finish.
>
>> Fine Sandpaper? Wire Wool? Scrapper?
>
> Sandpaper, or if particularly bad, then a card scraper. Beware of wire
> wool on oak since any fragments of steel left can discolour the oak
> black, and the steel will react with the tannins in the wood.
>
> Apply the oil in thin coats and wire off any excess before it dries. Use
> at least three coats. (you can apply additional coats relatively soon
> after the previous one - hours rather than days)
>
>> .. on a similar not I have some oak veneered doors which were just
>> left bear. Could these be oiled? If so whats the best way to remove
>> any greasy finger marks? Turps?
>
> Yup, or mild detergent and water. Note that the water may raise the
> grain a little, so knocking back with fine sandpaper before might be
> necessary.
>
>

I usually use Osma Polyx oil on bare wood products..... two coats via a
CLEAN and LINT FREE cloth... wipe on, then wipe off, don't let it
pool... Rinse and repeat to build up 3 thin coats.

S.

On 26/02/2024 17:14, nothanks@aolbin.com wrote:
> On 26/02/2024 10:45, David Wade wrote:
>> Folks,
>> Oddly I have what I think is an "on-topic" post.
>>
>> I have an oak topped "Peninsula" or bar in my kitchen. Despite being
>> oiled as specified, its started to feel a little rough in places and
>> has a couple of minor scratches.
>>
>> What would folks recommend for re-finishing the top?
>>
>> Fine Sandpaper? Wire Wool? Scrapper?
> Any damage will need sanding (obvs.), working through the grits to about
> 150. For general refinishing I use scotchbrite pads, with a backing
> block to avoid dishing. As JR has said - don't use steel wire wool.
>>
>> .. on a similar not I have some oak veneered doors which were just
>> left bear. Could these be oiled? If so whats the best way to remove
>> any greasy finger marks? Turps?
> If they *really* are unfinished then use scotchbrite pads with white
> spirit.

They are just bare wood , as delivered from Wickes I think. I had
forgotten about scotchbrite.

> I've used Osmo wood wax on doors, and Fiddes oil wax on floors (because
> I found an article on-line reviewing the different brands of oil
> finishes and concluding that Fiddes was more robust.

Well yes I have some oak floor which is badly marked. I was putting that
off till later. Not sure if the blocks are solid or veneered. If the
latter its going to be a big job to fix...

>>
>> Dave
>

Dave

On 26/02/2024 22:15, David Wade wrote:
> On 26/02/2024 17:14, nothanks@aolbin.com wrote:
>> On 26/02/2024 10:45, David Wade wrote:
>>> Folks,
>>> Oddly I have what I think is an "on-topic" post.
>>>
>>> I have an oak topped "Peninsula" or bar in my kitchen. Despite being
>>> oiled as specified, its started to feel a little rough in places and
>>> has a couple of minor scratches.
>>>
>>> What would folks recommend for re-finishing the top?
>>>
>>> Fine Sandpaper? Wire Wool? Scrapper?
>> Any damage will need sanding (obvs.), working through the grits to
>> about 150. For general refinishing I use scotchbrite pads, with a
>> backing block to avoid dishing. As JR has said - don't use steel wire
>> wool.
>>>
>>> .. on a similar not I have some oak veneered doors which were just
>>> left bear. Could these be oiled? If so whats the best way to remove
>>> any greasy finger marks? Turps?
>> If they *really* are unfinished then use scotchbrite pads with white
>> spirit.
>
> They are just bare wood , as delivered from Wickes I think. I had
> forgotten about scotchbrite.
Once you've been over the doors with scotchbrite and white spirit it's
fairly obvious if anywhere needs more work. Also, an oil finish can be
easily touched-up if there's an area that needs rework.
>
>> I've used Osmo wood wax on doors, and Fiddes oil wax on floors
>> (because I found an article on-line reviewing the different brands of
>> oil finishes and concluding that Fiddes was more robust.
I think this is it, but I'm surprised that it's from 2016 so it might be
worth a look around for something more recent:
https://www.peakoak.co.uk/guides/best-oak-floor-finishes-the-definitive-test/
>
> Well yes I have some oak floor which is badly marked. I was putting that
> off till later. Not sure if the blocks are solid or veneered. If the
> latter its going to be a big job to fix.. >
>
>>>
>>> Dave
>>
>
>
> Dave

On 26/02/2024 10:45, David Wade wrote:
> Folks,
> Oddly I have what I think is an "on-topic" post.
>
> I have an oak topped "Peninsula" or bar in my kitchen. Despite being
> oiled as specified, its started to feel a little rough in places and has
> a couple of minor scratches.
>
> What would folks recommend for re-finishing the top?
>
> Fine Sandpaper? Wire Wool? Scrapper?
>
> .. on a similar not I have some oak veneered doors which were just left
> bear. Could these be oiled? If so whats the best way to remove any
> greasy finger marks? Turps?
>
> Dave

Just periodic light sanding, oiling and wiping off. IME it will look
better as it gets a few more light scratches - that way they become part
of it rather than standing out.

--
Cheers
Clive

On 26/02/2024 16:24, John Rumm wrote:
> On 26/02/2024 10:45, David Wade wrote:
>> Folks,
>> Oddly I have what I think is an "on-topic" post.
>
> Oh yes, I remember those :-)
>
>> I have an oak topped "Peninsula" or bar in my kitchen. Despite being
>> oiled as specified, its started to feel a little rough in places and
>> has a couple of minor scratches.
>>
>> What would folks recommend for re-finishing the top?
>
> Re-oil with the same product. One of the nice things about oil finishes
> is the ease of touching up the finish.
>
>> Fine Sandpaper? Wire Wool? Scrapper?
>
> Sandpaper, or if particularly bad, then a card scraper. Beware of wire
> wool on oak since any fragments of steel left can discolour the oak
> black, and the steel will react with the tannins in the wood.
>
> Apply the oil in thin coats and wire off any excess before it dries. Use
> at least three coats. (you can apply additional coats relatively soon
> after the previous one - hours rather than days)
>
>> .. on a similar not I have some oak veneered doors which were just
>> left bear. Could these be oiled? If so whats the best way to remove
>> any greasy finger marks? Turps?
>
> Yup, or mild detergent and water. Note that the water may raise the
> grain a little, so knocking back with fine sandpaper before might be
> necessary.
>

Just so the OP doesn't get confused, presume your predictive text said
'wire off' when you meant 'wipe off'.

--
Regards
wasbit

On 27/02/2024 10:08, wasbit wrote:
> On 26/02/2024 16:24, John Rumm wrote:
>> On 26/02/2024 10:45, David Wade wrote:
>>> Folks,
>>> Oddly I have what I think is an "on-topic" post.
>>
>> Oh yes, I remember those :-)
>>
>>> I have an oak topped "Peninsula" or bar in my kitchen. Despite being
>>> oiled as specified, its started to feel a little rough in places and
>>> has a couple of minor scratches.
>>>
>>> What would folks recommend for re-finishing the top?
>>
>> Re-oil with the same product. One of the nice things about oil
>> finishes is the ease of touching up the finish.
>>
>>> Fine Sandpaper? Wire Wool? Scrapper?
>>
>> Sandpaper, or if particularly bad, then a card scraper. Beware of wire
>> wool on oak since any fragments of steel left can discolour the oak
>> black, and the steel will react with the tannins in the wood.
>>
>> Apply the oil in thin coats and wire off any excess before it dries.
>> Use at least three coats. (you can apply additional coats relatively
>> soon after the previous one - hours rather than days)
>>
>>> .. on a similar not I have some oak veneered doors which were just
>>> left bear. Could these be oiled? If so whats the best way to remove
>>> any greasy finger marks? Turps?
>>
>> Yup, or mild detergent and water. Note that the water may raise the
>> grain a little, so knocking back with fine sandpaper before might be
>> necessary.
>>
>
> Just so the OP doesn't get confused, presume your predictive text said
> 'wire off' when you meant 'wipe off'.

Yup sorry, my fat fingers!

Wipe off indeed.

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/