I suspect I have asked for advice on this before!

Current situation is a single place toilet with separate room for
handwashing. Farm premises with visiting drivers and light industrial
tenants/employees.

The objective is to combine the handwashing with the toilet building
releasing the wash area for conversion/upgrade.

Progress so far is to adapt an old sink/drainer unit (metal) by fitting
an electric under sink water heater.

Clearly an overhead pull switch for lighting is a start! Anything else I
need to consider? Class of protection for the supply?
--
Tim Lamb

On 11/03/2024 12:32, Tim Lamb wrote:
> I suspect I have asked for advice on this before!
>
> Current situation is a single place toilet with separate room for
> handwashing. Farm premises with visiting drivers and light industrial
> tenants/employees.
>
> The objective is to combine the handwashing with the toilet building
> releasing the wash area for conversion/upgrade.
>
> Progress so far is to adapt an old sink/drainer unit (metal) by fitting
> an electric under sink water heater.
>
> Clearly an overhead pull switch for lighting is a start! Anything else I
> need to consider? Class of protection for the supply?

A pull switch is not a requirement, unless there is a bath or shower and
even then, not if it is far enough away. In industrial situations, even
an emergency shower, for chemical contamination, does not count to
require a pull switch.

On 11/03/2024 12:32, Tim Lamb wrote:
> Progress so far is to adapt an old sink/drainer unit (metal) by fitting
> an electric under sink water heater.
>
> Clearly an overhead pull switch for lighting is a start! Anything else I
> need to consider? Class of protection for the supply?

A pull switch is probably the worst idea. It'll get filthy in days. Just
use a normal switch, there are no specific requirements for IP rating in
toilets/washbasin areas, just that the equipment has to be suitable for
its environment, which usually means at least 300mm away from the washbasin.
If you are worried about it getting wet, use a IP44 rated wall switch,
they are cheap, easily wiped down, and obvious as to what their use is.

In message <usnv20$3rj9o$1@dont-email.me>, SteveW
<steve@walker-family.me.uk> writes
>On 11/03/2024 12:32, Tim Lamb wrote:
>> I suspect I have asked for advice on this before!
>> Current situation is a single place toilet with separate room for
>>handwashing. Farm premises with visiting drivers and light industrial
>>tenants/employees.
>> The objective is to combine the handwashing with the toilet building
>>releasing the wash area for conversion/upgrade.
>> Progress so far is to adapt an old sink/drainer unit (metal) by
>>fitting an electric under sink water heater.
>> Clearly an overhead pull switch for lighting is a start! Anything
>>else I need to consider? Class of protection for the supply?
>
>A pull switch is not a requirement, unless there is a bath or shower
>and even then, not if it is far enough away. In industrial situations,
>even an emergency shower, for chemical contamination, does not count to
>require a pull switch.
Ok. Weatherproof suggested elsewhere.
>

--
Tim Lamb

In message <usp2q2$66uf$1@dont-email.me>, Alan Lee
<alan@darkroom.plus.com> writes
>On 11/03/2024 12:32, Tim Lamb wrote:
>> Progress so far is to adapt an old sink/drainer unit (metal) by
>>fitting an electric under sink water heater.
>> Clearly an overhead pull switch for lighting is a start! Anything
>>else I need to consider? Class of protection for the supply?
>
>A pull switch is probably the worst idea. It'll get filthy in days.
>Just use a normal switch, there are no specific requirements for IP
>rating in toilets/washbasin areas, just that the equipment has to be
>suitable for its environment, which usually means at least 300mm away
>from the washbasin.
>If you are worried about it getting wet, use a IP44 rated wall switch,
>they are cheap, easily wiped down, and obvious as to what their use is.

Ok. Could include a neon for dark evenings. My concern was the basin
positioning makes it easy to have one hand on a metal sink and the other
on the light switch.
>
>

--
Tim Lamb

On 12/03/2024 09:26, Tim Lamb wrote:
> In message <usp2q2$66uf$1@dont-email.me>, Alan Lee
> <alan@darkroom.plus.com> writes
>> On 11/03/2024 12:32, Tim Lamb wrote:
>>> Progress so far is to adapt an old sink/drainer unit (metal) by
>>> fitting  an electric under sink water heater.
>>>  Clearly an overhead pull switch for lighting is a start! Anything
>>> else I  need to consider? Class of protection for the supply?
>>
>> A pull switch is probably the worst idea. It'll get filthy in days.
>> Just use a normal switch, there are no specific requirements for IP
>> rating in toilets/washbasin areas, just that the equipment has to be
>> suitable for its environment, which usually means at least 300mm away
>> from the washbasin.
>> If you are worried about it getting wet, use a IP44 rated wall switch,
>> they are cheap, easily wiped down, and obvious as to what their use is.
>
> Ok. Could include a neon for dark evenings. My concern was the basin
> positioning makes it easy to have one hand on a metal sink and the other
> on the light switch.

In this case one solution may be a PIR or microwave detector to detect
that someone is in the toilet/wash house. This prevents the light being
left on for extended periods of time when unoccupied.

https://greenlighting.co.uk/pir-vs-microwave-sensors-need/

Possible include a fused keyed switch for maintenance purposes.

https://www.dungannonelectrical.co.uk/Search-Results?prodref=K973KOMCO&category=pg_FUSED+C832693

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

In message <l5ao0nF6lniU1@mid.individual.net>, alan_m
<junk@admac.myzen.co.uk> writes
>On 12/03/2024 09:26, Tim Lamb wrote:
>> In message <usp2q2$66uf$1@dont-email.me>, Alan Lee
>><alan@darkroom.plus.com> writes
>>> On 11/03/2024 12:32, Tim Lamb wrote:
>>>> Progress so far is to adapt an old sink/drainer unit (metal) by
>>>>fitting  an electric under sink water heater.
>>>>  Clearly an overhead pull switch for lighting is a start! Anything
>>>>else I  need to consider? Class of protection for the supply?
>>>
>>> A pull switch is probably the worst idea. It'll get filthy in days.
>>>Just use a normal switch, there are no specific requirements for IP
>>>rating in toilets/washbasin areas, just that the equipment has to be
>>>suitable for its environment, which usually means at least 300mm away
>>>from the washbasin.
>>> If you are worried about it getting wet, use a IP44 rated wall
>>>switch, they are cheap, easily wiped down, and obvious as to what
>>>their use is.
>> Ok. Could include a neon for dark evenings. My concern was the basin
>>positioning makes it easy to have one hand on a metal sink and the
>>other on the light switch.
>
>In this case one solution may be a PIR or microwave detector to detect
>that someone is in the toilet/wash house. This prevents the light being
>left on for extended periods of time when unoccupied.
>
>https://greenlighting.co.uk/pir-vs-microwave-sensors-need/
>
>Possible include a fused keyed switch for maintenance purposes.
>
>https://www.dungannonelectrical.co.uk/Search-Results?prodref=K973KOMCO&c
>ategory=pg_FUSED+C832693

:-) Bit upmarket for a flat roof, concrete block, 1960's toilet!

Fitting a weatherproof switch outside the door will cover the *reach*
issue and I hope to get the adjoining building functional as a mixed use
toilet/handwash facility this year.

Electrical connections to the water heater will all be enclosed/behind
doors. Protective trips can be located at the supply source in the
adjoining building.
>

--
Tim Lamb

On 12/03/2024 10:10, alan_m wrote:
> On 12/03/2024 09:26, Tim Lamb wrote:
>> In message <usp2q2$66uf$1@dont-email.me>, Alan Lee
>> <alan@darkroom.plus.com> writes
>>> On 11/03/2024 12:32, Tim Lamb wrote:
>>>> Progress so far is to adapt an old sink/drainer unit (metal) by
>>>> fitting  an electric under sink water heater.
>>>>  Clearly an overhead pull switch for lighting is a start! Anything
>>>> else I  need to consider? Class of protection for the supply?
>>>
>>> A pull switch is probably the worst idea. It'll get filthy in days.
>>> Just use a normal switch, there are no specific requirements for IP
>>> rating in toilets/washbasin areas, just that the equipment has to be
>>> suitable for its environment, which usually means at least 300mm away
>>> from the washbasin.
>>> If you are worried about it getting wet, use a IP44 rated wall
>>> switch, they are cheap, easily wiped down, and obvious as to what
>>> their use is.
>>
>> Ok. Could include a neon for dark evenings. My concern was the basin
>> positioning makes it easy to have one hand on a metal sink and the
>> other on the light switch.
>
> In this case one solution may be a PIR or microwave detector to detect
> that someone is in the toilet/wash house. This prevents the light being
> left on for extended periods of time when unoccupied.
>
> https://greenlighting.co.uk/pir-vs-microwave-sensors-need/
>
> Possible include a fused keyed switch for maintenance purposes.
>
> https://www.dungannonelectrical.co.uk/Search-Results?prodref=K973KOMCO&category=pg_FUSED+C832693
>

I use one of these in my downstairs loo

https://www.screwfix.com/p/zinc-dion-indoor-outdoor-white-pir-twin-sensor-180-/718fh

(sorry you need to re-join the URL). There is a isolator to allow work.

Dave

In message <usphpp$9he3$1@dont-email.me>, David Wade
<g4ugm@dave.invalid> writes
>On 12/03/2024 10:10, alan_m wrote:
>> On 12/03/2024 09:26, Tim Lamb wrote:
>>> In message <usp2q2$66uf$1@dont-email.me>, Alan Lee
>>><alan@darkroom.plus.com> writes
>>>> On 11/03/2024 12:32, Tim Lamb wrote:
>>>>> Progress so far is to adapt an old sink/drainer unit (metal) by
>>>>>fitting  an electric under sink water heater.
>>>>>  Clearly an overhead pull switch for lighting is a start! Anything
>>>>>else I  need to consider? Class of protection for the supply?
>>>>
>>>> A pull switch is probably the worst idea. It'll get filthy in days.
>>>>Just use a normal switch, there are no specific requirements for IP
>>>>rating in toilets/washbasin areas, just that the equipment has to be
>>>>suitable for its environment, which usually means at least 300mm
>>>>away from the washbasin.
>>>> If you are worried about it getting wet, use a IP44 rated wall
>>>>switch, they are cheap, easily wiped down, and obvious as to what
>>>>their use is.
>>>
>>> Ok. Could include a neon for dark evenings. My concern was the basin
>>>positioning makes it easy to have one hand on a metal sink and the
>>>other on the light switch.
>> In this case one solution may be a PIR or microwave detector to
>>detect that someone is in the toilet/wash house. This prevents the
>>light being left on for extended periods of time when unoccupied.
>> https://greenlighting.co.uk/pir-vs-microwave-sensors-need/
>> Possible include a fused keyed switch for maintenance purposes.
>>
>>https://www.dungannonelectrical.co.uk/Search-Results?prodref=K973KOMCO&
>>category=pg_FUSED+C832693
>>
>
>I use one of these in my downstairs loo
>
>https://www.screwfix.com/p/zinc-dion-indoor-outdoor-white-pir-twin-senso
>r-180-/718fh
>
>(sorry you need to re-join the URL). There is a isolator to allow work.

I have found these good for illuminating garage doors etc. You would
need to wave your arms every 5 minutes if sat on a toilet:-)

https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-weyburn-outdoor-led-floodlight-with-pir-se
nsor-black-10w-1000lm/433pg

--
Tim Lamb