I am planning to install a large IKEA cabinet, involving a suspension
rail. At the moment there is a socket in the wall which will need to
be removed or relocated. I am wondering about asking an electrician to
link the cables to maintain the ring main and replace the socket with
a blanking plate.

I am wondering if there will definitely be sufficient space behind the
cabinet to accommodate the depth of the blanking plate. I have
received contradictory information at IKEA: that there is a 1.5 cm
void behind the back panel of the cabinet, that there is no space
whatsoever behind the cabinet and that there is 1 cm available behind
the cabinet. The last piece of information came from a manager, so I
tend to think it has more credence.

The cabinet is in the living room range at IKEA (which may make a
difference). Has anyone installed a large (1.2 m) IKEA cabinet who
could tell me whether a blanking plate would fit into the void? The
alternative I suppose is to excavate the wall as what is behind the
cabinet will be out of sight but I would prefer to avoid this.

As a supplementary, is it permitted to place a connector block inside
the steel back box than add the blanking plate?

Scott wrote:

> whether a blanking plate would fit into the void?

Assuming you have skirting boards, you'll have at least that depth
available behind the cabinet.

> is it permitted to place a connector block inside
> the steel back box than add the blanking plate?

Yes, that's fine.

On Mon, 1 Apr 2024 21:19:52 +0100, Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>
wrote:

>Scott wrote:
>
>> whether a blanking plate would fit into the void?
>
>Assuming you have skirting boards, you'll have at least that depth
>available behind the cabinet.

I should have said, I have been advised to remove the skirting boards.
If I do this, will there still be enough of a gap between the back of
the carcase and the back panel to accommodate a blanking plate only?
>
>> is it permitted to place a connector block inside
>> the steel back box than add the blanking plate?
>
>Yes, that's fine.

Thanks I assumed this would be the case. (I have given up on the
separate lightswitch query as I am arranging for an electrician to
attend to took at a number of anomalies.)

On 01/04/2024 21:05, Scott wrote:
> The cabinet is in the living room range at IKEA (which may make a
> difference). Has anyone installed a large (1.2 m) IKEA cabinet who could
> tell me whether a blanking plate would fit into the void? The
> alternative I suppose is to excavate the wall as what is behind the
> cabinet will be out of sight but I would prefer to avoid this.

Most IKEA cabinets go flush to the wall. Why not give us the name, some
one will probably have used the same unit.

It also appears low profile or flat blanking plates are available...

Dave

On Mon, 1 Apr 2024 21:36:39 +0100, David Wade <g4ugm@dave.invalid>
wrote:

>On 01/04/2024 21:05, Scott wrote:
>> The cabinet is in the living room range at IKEA (which may make a
>> difference). Has anyone installed a large (1.2 m) IKEA cabinet who could
>> tell me whether a blanking plate would fit into the void? The
>> alternative I suppose is to excavate the wall as what is behind the
>> cabinet will be out of sight but I would prefer to avoid this.
>
>Most IKEA cabinets go flush to the wall. Why not give us the name, some
>one will probably have used the same unit.
>
>It also appears low profile or flat blanking plates are available...
>
Good point. It's this one I think:
https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/metod-high-cabinet-frame-white-90212564/

I understand the carcase masy go flush to the wall. However, one of
the three explanations I was given by IKEA is that the back panel of
the cabinet is recessed by 1 cm into the carcase which should give
adequate space for my purpose. I need to verify this before the
electrician comes in so I can explain what I am trying to achieve.

In article <754m0j1tj513b34fm3ol5enktc46m811vj@4ax.com>,
Scott <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:
> I am planning to install a large IKEA cabinet, involving a suspension
> rail. At the moment there is a socket in the wall which will need to
> be removed or relocated. I am wondering about asking an electrician to
> link the cables to maintain the ring main and replace the socket with
> a blanking plate.

> I am wondering if there will definitely be sufficient space behind the
> cabinet to accommodate the depth of the blanking plate. I have
> received contradictory information at IKEA: that there is a 1.5 cm
> void behind the back panel of the cabinet, that there is no space
> whatsoever behind the cabinet and that there is 1 cm available behind
> the cabinet. The last piece of information came from a manager, so I
> tend to think it has more credence.

> The cabinet is in the living room range at IKEA (which may make a
> difference). Has anyone installed a large (1.2 m) IKEA cabinet who
> could tell me whether a blanking plate would fit into the void? The
> alternative I suppose is to excavate the wall as what is behind the
> cabinet will be out of sight but I would prefer to avoid this.

> As a supplementary, is it permitted to place a connector block inside
> the steel back box than add the blanking plate?

A steel blanking plate has less thickness than a white one.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England - sent from my RISC OS 4té²
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

Scott <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:
> Good point. It's this one I think:
> https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/metod-high-cabinet-frame-white-90212564/
>
> I understand the carcase masy go flush to the wall. However, one of
> the three explanations I was given by IKEA is that the back panel of
> the cabinet is recessed by 1 cm into the carcase which should give
> adequate space for my purpose. I need to verify this before the
> electrician comes in so I can explain what I am trying to achieve.

You can usually get a good clue by looking at the assembly instructions:
https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/assembly_instructions/metod-high-cabinet-frame-white__AA-2238513-4-2.pdf

In this case it seems there is a thin piece of backing material (it's
usually hardboard) that slides in to a slot in the back frame (picture 5)
and its then nailed in place (picture 12)

That would give you some clearance, but only the depth of the slot frame. I
would guess 5mm or so. There could be slightly more leeway if the slot
has a bit of slop to get the backing in (guess maybe 2mm more).

I'd query why it needs to go flush to the wall though? Ikea instructions
always tell you to screw things to the wall, but if you're sensible about
loading (don't put all the heavy items on the top shelf) it's usually fine
unless you have children or pets which might climb or pull the item over, or
high drawers which might cause a heavy load to bear away from the wall.

If it were me I'd just leave the socket in place and live with a few mm of
gap. It's quite possible the wall isn't perfectly vertical anyway.

Or you could cut a hole in the backing (it's only hardboard) so the socket
comes through to the unit. That could even be useful if you have some need
for power inside (eg if you were going to put your hifi in there or some
other gear).

Theo

On 01/04/2024 21:54, Scott wrote:

> Good point. It's this one I think:
> https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/metod-high-cabinet-frame-white-90212564/

See
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3n-R3H_YOYw

assembly instructions
https://assets.plum-living.com/installation-guides/ikea/metod/06-mounting-a-standard-column.pdf

It appears that the back is recessed. The back board fits into a slot.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 01/04/2024 22:14, Theo wrote:
> Scott <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:
>> Good point. It's this one I think:
>> https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/metod-high-cabinet-frame-white-90212564/
>>
>> I understand the carcase masy go flush to the wall. However, one of
>> the three explanations I was given by IKEA is that the back panel of
>> the cabinet is recessed by 1 cm into the carcase which should give
>> adequate space for my purpose. I need to verify this before the
>> electrician comes in so I can explain what I am trying to achieve.
>
> You can usually get a good clue by looking at the assembly instructions:
> https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/assembly_instructions/metod-high-cabinet-frame-white__AA-2238513-4-2.pdf
>
> In this case it seems there is a thin piece of backing material (it's
> usually hardboard) that slides in to a slot in the back frame (picture 5)
> and its then nailed in place (picture 12)
>
> That would give you some clearance, but only the depth of the slot frame. I
> would guess 5mm or so. There could be slightly more leeway if the slot
> has a bit of slop to get the backing in (guess maybe 2mm more).
>
> I'd query why it needs to go flush to the wall though? Ikea instructions
> always tell you to screw things to the wall, but if you're sensible about
> loading (don't put all the heavy items on the top shelf) it's usually fine
> unless you have children or pets which might climb or pull the item over, or
> high drawers which might cause a heavy load to bear away from the wall.
>
> If it were me I'd just leave the socket in place and live with a few mm of
> gap. It's quite possible the wall isn't perfectly vertical anyway.
>
> Or you could cut a hole in the backing (it's only hardboard) so the socket
> comes through to the unit. That could even be useful if you have some need
> for power inside (eg if you were going to put your hifi in there or some
> other gear).
I think I might try that as well, unless it fouls where a shelf will go.
Pretty sure that given the slot, a thin blanking plate will fit...

>
> Theo

Dave

On 01 Apr 2024 22:14:10 +0100 (BST), Theo <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk>
wrote:

>You can usually get a good clue by looking at the assembly instructions:
>https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/assembly_instructions/metod-high-cabinet-frame-white__AA-2238513-4-2.pdf
>
>In this case it seems there is a thin piece of backing material (it's
>usually hardboard) that slides in to a slot in the back frame (picture 5)
>and its then nailed in place (picture 12)
>
>That would give you some clearance, but only the depth of the slot frame. I
>would guess 5mm or so. There could be slightly more leeway if the slot
>has a bit of slop to get the backing in (guess maybe 2mm more).

There's the depth of the slot frame, plus the thickness of the spacers numbered
10039201 nailed to the bottom -- plus the flex of the thin backing if it's not
right at the edge.

It'll fit...

Thomas Prufer

On 01 Apr 2024 22:14:10 +0100 (BST), Theo
<theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:

>Scott <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:
>> Good point. It's this one I think:
>> https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/metod-high-cabinet-frame-white-90212564/
>>
>> I understand the carcase masy go flush to the wall. However, one of
>> the three explanations I was given by IKEA is that the back panel of
>> the cabinet is recessed by 1 cm into the carcase which should give
>> adequate space for my purpose. I need to verify this before the
>> electrician comes in so I can explain what I am trying to achieve.
>
>You can usually get a good clue by looking at the assembly instructions:
>https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/assembly_instructions/metod-high-cabinet-frame-white__AA-2238513-4-2.pdf

I see what you mean. 8 and 9 support this. Thanks for posting.
>
>In this case it seems there is a thin piece of backing material (it's
>usually hardboard) that slides in to a slot in the back frame (picture 5)
>and its then nailed in place (picture 12)
>
>That would give you some clearance, but only the depth of the slot frame. I
>would guess 5mm or so. There could be slightly more leeway if the slot
>has a bit of slop to get the backing in (guess maybe 2mm more).
>
>I'd query why it needs to go flush to the wall though? Ikea instructions
>always tell you to screw things to the wall, but if you're sensible about
>loading (don't put all the heavy items on the top shelf) it's usually fine
>unless you have children or pets which might climb or pull the item over, or
>high drawers which might cause a heavy load to bear away from the wall.

A friend of mine is seeking to persuade me that it would be neater to
cut the skirting board round the unit.
>
>If it were me I'd just leave the socket in place and live with a few mm of
>gap. It's quite possible the wall isn't perfectly vertical anyway.
>
>Or you could cut a hole in the backing (it's only hardboard) so the socket
>comes through to the unit. That could even be useful if you have some need
>for power inside (eg if you were going to put your hifi in there or some
>other gear).
>
Or charging the Dyson, I suppose.

On Mon, 01 Apr 24 21:00:03 UTC, charles <charles@candehope.me.uk>
wrote:

>In article <754m0j1tj513b34fm3ol5enktc46m811vj@4ax.com>,
> Scott <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:
>> I am planning to install a large IKEA cabinet, involving a suspension
>> rail. At the moment there is a socket in the wall which will need to
>> be removed or relocated. I am wondering about asking an electrician to
>> link the cables to maintain the ring main and replace the socket with
>> a blanking plate.
>
>> I am wondering if there will definitely be sufficient space behind the
>> cabinet to accommodate the depth of the blanking plate. I have
>> received contradictory information at IKEA: that there is a 1.5 cm
>> void behind the back panel of the cabinet, that there is no space
>> whatsoever behind the cabinet and that there is 1 cm available behind
>> the cabinet. The last piece of information came from a manager, so I
>> tend to think it has more credence.
>
>> The cabinet is in the living room range at IKEA (which may make a
>> difference). Has anyone installed a large (1.2 m) IKEA cabinet who
>> could tell me whether a blanking plate would fit into the void? The
>> alternative I suppose is to excavate the wall as what is behind the
>> cabinet will be out of sight but I would prefer to avoid this.
>
>> As a supplementary, is it permitted to place a connector block inside
>> the steel back box than add the blanking plate?
>
>A steel blanking plate has less thickness than a white one.

This is a very interesting point. Until now I did not realise these
existed.

On Mon, 1 Apr 2024 21:19:52 +0100, Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>
wrote:

>Scott wrote:
>
>> whether a blanking plate would fit into the void?
>
>Assuming you have skirting boards, you'll have at least that depth
>available behind the cabinet.
>
>> is it permitted to place a connector block inside
>> the steel back box than add the blanking plate?
>
>Yes, that's fine.

Interestingly, the electrician said on the phone that a crimp is
better than a connector block and that it is best practice for the
junction to be accessible for maintenance.

On 02/04/2024 18:41, Scott wrote:

>
> Interestingly, the electrician said on the phone that a crimp is
> better than a connector block and that it is best practice for the
> junction to be accessible for maintenance.

If there is a possibility of the socket being reinstalled at a later
date perhaps a Wago connector is better.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Tue, 2 Apr 2024 18:55:40 +0100, alan_m <junk@admac.myzen.co.uk>
wrote:

>On 02/04/2024 18:41, Scott wrote:
>
>>
>> Interestingly, the electrician said on the phone that a crimp is
>> better than a connector block and that it is best practice for the
>> junction to be accessible for maintenance.
>
>If there is a possibility of the socket being reinstalled at a later
>date perhaps a Wago connector is better.

Yes, he also mentioned a Wago connector as a possibility. Says he will
look at the options after the wiring check.

On 02/04/2024 09:41, Scott wrote:
> On 01 Apr 2024 22:14:10 +0100 (BST), Theo
> <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:
>
>> Scott <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:
>>> Good point. It's this one I think:
>>> https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/metod-high-cabinet-frame-white-90212564/
>>>
>>> I understand the carcase masy go flush to the wall. However, one of
>>> the three explanations I was given by IKEA is that the back panel of
>>> the cabinet is recessed by 1 cm into the carcase which should give
>>> adequate space for my purpose. I need to verify this before the
>>> electrician comes in so I can explain what I am trying to achieve.
>>
>> You can usually get a good clue by looking at the assembly instructions:
>> https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/assembly_instructions/metod-high-cabinet-frame-white__AA-2238513-4-2.pdf
>
> I see what you mean. 8 and 9 support this. Thanks for posting.
>>
>> In this case it seems there is a thin piece of backing material (it's
>> usually hardboard) that slides in to a slot in the back frame (picture 5)
>> and its then nailed in place (picture 12)
>>
>> That would give you some clearance, but only the depth of the slot frame. I
>> would guess 5mm or so. There could be slightly more leeway if the slot
>> has a bit of slop to get the backing in (guess maybe 2mm more).
>>
>> I'd query why it needs to go flush to the wall though? Ikea instructions
>> always tell you to screw things to the wall, but if you're sensible about
>> loading (don't put all the heavy items on the top shelf) it's usually fine
>> unless you have children or pets which might climb or pull the item over, or
>> high drawers which might cause a heavy load to bear away from the wall.
>
> A friend of mine is seeking to persuade me that it would be neater to
> cut the skirting board round the unit.

A Good excuse to buy a multi-tool then, to get a nice
clean cut and no collateral damage to surrounding plaster

On 01/04/2024 22:00, charles wrote:
> In article <754m0j1tj513b34fm3ol5enktc46m811vj@4ax.com>,
> Scott <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:
>> I am planning to install a large IKEA cabinet, involving a suspension
>> rail. At the moment there is a socket in the wall which will need to
>> be removed or relocated. I am wondering about asking an electrician to
>> link the cables to maintain the ring main and replace the socket with
>> a blanking plate.
>
>> I am wondering if there will definitely be sufficient space behind the
>> cabinet to accommodate the depth of the blanking plate. I have
>> received contradictory information at IKEA: that there is a 1.5 cm
>> void behind the back panel of the cabinet, that there is no space
>> whatsoever behind the cabinet and that there is 1 cm available behind
>> the cabinet. The last piece of information came from a manager, so I
>> tend to think it has more credence.
>
>> The cabinet is in the living room range at IKEA (which may make a
>> difference). Has anyone installed a large (1.2 m) IKEA cabinet who
>> could tell me whether a blanking plate would fit into the void? The
>> alternative I suppose is to excavate the wall as what is behind the
>> cabinet will be out of sight but I would prefer to avoid this.
>
>> As a supplementary, is it permitted to place a connector block inside
>> the steel back box than add the blanking plate?
>
> A steel blanking plate has less thickness than a white one.
>

If the back box is hidden behind the unit, why bother
with a blanking plate at all ?