A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably
has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs
sharpening, to be polite about it.
I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He
moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's
no lead-in and it sits right down.

Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off,
although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a
lot of plastic under there.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
> A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably
> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
> The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs
> sharpening, to be polite about it.
> I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
> handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He
> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
> I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's
> no lead-in and it sits right down.
>
> Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off,
> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a
> lot of plastic under there.

Chances are you need to use an impact tool. If you don’t have one, a good
fitting socket with a T bar and a firm ‘tap’ with a hammer.

On 12/04/2024 17:30, PeterC wrote:
> A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably
> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
> The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs
> sharpening, to be polite about it.
> I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
> handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He
> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
> I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's
> no lead-in and it sits right down.
>
> Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off,
> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a
> lot of plastic under there.

Lump hammer and shock it off. Spanner/socket on the nut then hit other
end of the spanner or ratchet bar with the lump hammer.

Stop the blade from turning with a lump of wood wedged in the deck.

If it's a petrol mower first remove the spark plug lead

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 12/04/2024 17:55, Brian wrote:
> PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
>> A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably
>> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
>> The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs
>> sharpening, to be polite about it.
>> I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
>> handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He
>> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
>> I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's
>> no lead-in and it sits right down.
>>
>> Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off,
>> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a
>> lot of plastic under there.
>
> Chances are you need to use an impact tool. If you don’t have one, a good
> fitting socket with a T bar and a firm ‘tap’ with a hammer.
>
>
Just lock the blades up using anything that comes to hand - wood blocks,
mole grips, etc. and use serious long bar torque. I mean a 3ft long bar
- hire but or borrow Also get it red hot with a blowtorch and douse in
penetrating oil overnight

>

--
Gun Control: The law that ensures that only criminals have guns.

On 12/04/2024 17:55, Brian wrote:
> PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
>> A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably
>> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
>> The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs
>> sharpening, to be polite about it.
>> I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
>> handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He
>> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
>> I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's
>> no lead-in and it sits right down.
>>
>> Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off,
>> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a
>> lot of plastic under there.
>
> Chances are you need to use an impact tool. If you don’t have one, a good
> fitting socket with a T bar and a firm ‘tap’ with a hammer.
>
>
>
Take it to a tyre fitting place and ask them to undo it with
their air-impact gun.

On 12/04/2024 18:00, alan_m wrote:

>
> Lump hammer and shock it off. Spanner/socket on the nut then hit other
> end of the spanner or ratchet bar with the lump hammer.
>
> Stop the blade from turning with a lump of wood wedged in the deck.
>
> If it's a petrol mower first remove the spark plug lead
>
Agreed. I've had two big Hondas over the years. The first had a thick
slasher, rather than a blade. The second was a blade that could be
sharpened whilst on the mower.

Can't say more as the OP didn't identify the model. Helpful.

PA

In message <uvbtqo$2garu$1@dont-email.me>, The Natural Philosopher
<tnp@invalid.invalid> writes
>On 12/04/2024 17:55, Brian wrote:
>> PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
>>> A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably
>>> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
>>> The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs
>>> sharpening, to be polite about it.
>>> I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
>>> handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He
>>> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
>>> I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's
>>> no lead-in and it sits right down.
>>>
>>> Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off,
>>> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a
>>> lot of plastic under there.
>> Chances are you need to use an impact tool. If you don’t have one,
>>a good
>> fitting socket with a T bar and a firm ‘tap’ with a hammer.
>>
>Just lock the blades up using anything that comes to hand - wood
>blocks, mole grips, etc. and use serious long bar torque. I mean a 3ft
>long bar - hire but or borrow Also get it red hot with a blowtorch and
>douse in penetrating oil overnight

Two retainers were mentioned. Single bolts can be reverse threaded for
self tightening depending on cutter blade rotation.

--
Tim Lamb

PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
> A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably
> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
> The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs
> sharpening, to be polite about it.
> I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
> handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He
> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
> I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's
> no lead-in and it sits right down.
>
> Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off,
> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a
> lot of plastic under there.

Are you certain it isn’t a reverse thread? I cheap electric impact driver
is great for jobs like these.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On Fri, 12 Apr 2024 17:30:22 +0100, PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk>
wrote:

>Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off,
>although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a
>lot of plastic under there.

Penetrating oil and let it sit for while. May not help, but certainly will not
harm...

Thomas Prufer

On 13/04/2024 07:24, Tim+ wrote:
> PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
>> A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably
>> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
>> The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs
>> sharpening, to be polite about it.
>> I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
>> handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He
>> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
>> I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's
>> no lead-in and it sits right down.
>>
>> Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off,
>> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a
>> lot of plastic under there.
>
> Are you certain it isn’t a reverse thread? I cheap electric impact driver
> is great for jobs like these.
>
> Tim
>
There is no point in reverse thread on these.
Its juts massively gunged up.
My ride on got like that once

I just added even more torque till it gave up

--
Gun Control: The law that ensures that only criminals have guns.

On 13/04/2024 07:24, Tim+ wrote:
> PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
>> A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably
>> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
>> The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs
>> sharpening, to be polite about it.
>> I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
>> handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He
>> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
>> I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's
>> no lead-in and it sits right down.
>>
>> Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off,
>> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a
>> lot of plastic under there.
>
> Are you certain it isn’t a reverse thread? I cheap electric impact driver
> is great for jobs like these.

I was thinking the same. I've been caught out before. Many rotary mowers
are intended to spin in a specific direction that deposits clippings to
one side. I'm pretty sure the couple I have dealt with have been
ordinary RH threads.

Only the OP will know if the bolt moved in the attempt to undo the bolt.
If it did and then wouldn't move any more I'd be tempted to 'tighten'
the bolt to see if it moves and undoes.

On Fri, 12 Apr 2024 19:16:56 +0100
The Natural Philosopher <tnp@invalid.invalid> wrote:

> On 12/04/2024 17:55, Brian wrote:
> > PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
> >> A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It
> >> probably has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old
> >> at least). The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the
> >> spare I have) needs sharpening, to be polite about it.
> >> I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using
> >> steel handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with
> >> my size 13. He moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
> >> I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so
> >> that there's no lead-in and it sits right down.
> >>
> >> Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might
> >> shear off, although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using
> >> a torch but there's a lot of plastic under there.
> >
> > Chances are you need to use an impact tool. If you don’t have one,
> > a good fitting socket with a T bar and a firm ‘tap’ with a hammer.
> >
> >
> Just lock the blades up using anything that comes to hand - wood
> blocks, mole grips, etc. and use serious long bar torque. I mean a
> 3ft long bar
> - hire but or borrow Also get it red hot with a blowtorch and douse
> in penetrating oil overnight
>
> >
>

Note his final sentence:
" I wondered about using a torch but there's a
lot of plastic under there."

Not a pretty sight if that catches fire.

--
Davey.

In message <uvdqq8$2vntm$1@dont-email.me>, Fredxx <fredxx@spam.invalid>
writes
>On 13/04/2024 07:24, Tim+ wrote:
>> PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
>>> A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably
>>> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
>>> The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs
>>> sharpening, to be polite about it.
>>> I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
>>> handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He
>>> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
>>> I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's
>>> no lead-in and it sits right down.
>>>
>>> Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off,
>>> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a
>>> lot of plastic under there.
>> Are you certain it isn’t a reverse thread? I cheap electric
>>impact driver
>> is great for jobs like these.
>
>I was thinking the same. I've been caught out before. Many rotary
>mowers are intended to spin in a specific direction that deposits
>clippings to one side. I'm pretty sure the couple I have dealt with
>have been ordinary RH threads.
>
>Only the OP will know if the bolt moved in the attempt to undo the
>bolt. If it did and then wouldn't move any more I'd be tempted to
>'tighten' the bolt to see if it moves and undoes.

If the blade is retained by an anti slip *slot* or two bolts, there is
no benefit in using a reverse threaded bolt.
If the blade relies on bolt tightness only, an eyeball check for
direction of rotation will indicate the possibility.

Takes a bit of head juggling but starting at the drive shaft... the
cutter will try to *slip* in the opposite direction. The retaining bolt
thread needs to tighten in the direction of slip.
>

--
Tim Lamb

On Sat, 13 Apr 2024 12:37:44 +0100, Fredxx wrote:

> On 13/04/2024 07:24, Tim+ wrote:
>> PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
>>> A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably
>>> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
>>> The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs
>>> sharpening, to be polite about it.
>>> I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
>>> handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He
>>> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
>>> I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's
>>> no lead-in and it sits right down.
>>>
>>> Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off,
>>> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a
>>> lot of plastic under there.
>>
>> Are you certain it isn’t a reverse thread? I cheap electric impact driver
>> is great for jobs like these.
>
> I was thinking the same. I've been caught out before. Many rotary mowers
> are intended to spin in a specific direction that deposits clippings to
> one side. I'm pretty sure the couple I have dealt with have been
> ordinary RH threads.
>
> Only the OP will know if the bolt moved in the attempt to undo the bolt.
> If it did and then wouldn't move any more I'd be tempted to 'tighten'
> the bolt to see if it moves and undoes.

Right, sorry about no model but it's very similar to my still broken one
(coil poss. but getting help to check for spark is difficult as it needs
strength and some skill, which most seem to lack!).
I always remove the cap from the plug - I don't want to 'bump start' it!
The bolts are RH thread.
Hammer, with as much preload as I can manage, tried with sharp blows.
One undid; the other didn't move at all.
I can try a torch (got 2 'asbestos' mats) but not too hot, then put oil on
to cool it and, hopefully, the oil will be 'sucked' in.
Tyre place - getting something that size on the bus...

Now, impact driver. Seems best but I don't have the fittings to get from 6mm
hex to 3/8" square - the hex stem sockets stop 1mm short. Been looking but
can't see anything.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Sat, 13 Apr 2024 19:01:50 +0100, PeterC wrote:

> On Sat, 13 Apr 2024 12:37:44 +0100, Fredxx wrote:
>
>> On 13/04/2024 07:24, Tim+ wrote:
>>> PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
>>>> A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It
>>>> probably has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at
>>>> least).
>>>> The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have)
>>>> needs sharpening, to be polite about it.
>>>> I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
>>>> handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size
>>>> 13. He moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
>>>> I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that
>>>> there's no lead-in and it sits right down.
>>>>
>>>> Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might
>>>> shear off, although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a
>>>> torch but there's a lot of plastic under there.
>>>
>>> Are you certain it isnʼt a reverse thread? I cheap electric impact
>>> driver is great for jobs like these.
>>
>> I was thinking the same. I've been caught out before. Many rotary
>> mowers are intended to spin in a specific direction that deposits
>> clippings to one side. I'm pretty sure the couple I have dealt with
>> have been ordinary RH threads.
>>
>> Only the OP will know if the bolt moved in the attempt to undo the
>> bolt.
>> If it did and then wouldn't move any more I'd be tempted to 'tighten'
>> the bolt to see if it moves and undoes.
>
> Right, sorry about no model but it's very similar to my still broken one
> (coil poss. but getting help to check for spark is difficult as it needs
> strength and some skill, which most seem to lack!).
> I always remove the cap from the plug - I don't want to 'bump start' it!
> The bolts are RH thread.
> Hammer, with as much preload as I can manage, tried with sharp blows.
> One undid; the other didn't move at all.
> I can try a torch (got 2 'asbestos' mats) but not too hot, then put oil
> on to cool it and, hopefully, the oil will be 'sucked' in.
> Tyre place - getting something that size on the bus...
>
> Now, impact driver. Seems best but I don't have the fittings to get from
> 6mm hex to 3/8" square - the hex stem sockets stop 1mm short. Been
> looking but can't see anything.

Is this the kind of thing?
<https://www.amazon.co.uk/Impact-Socket-Adapter-Extension-Driver/dp/
B077KT6239/?th=1>

It should certainly work in a cordless drill with an SDS setting.

Not sure where my set is at the moment so I can't immediately check with
my impact driver.

--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 10 x64

On 13 Apr 2024 18:30:42 GMT, David wrote:

>> Now, impact driver. Seems best but I don't have the fittings to get from
>> 6mm hex to 3/8" square - the hex stem sockets stop 1mm short. Been
>> looking but can't see anything.
>
> Is this the kind of thing?
> <https://www.amazon.co.uk/Impact-Socket-Adapter-Extension-Driver/dp/
> B077KT6239/?th=1>
>
> It should certainly work in a cordless drill with an SDS setting.
>
> Not sure where my set is at the moment so I can't immediately check with
> my impact driver.

Thanks - ordered adaptors and an impact socket
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 4/13/2024 2:01 PM, PeterC wrote:
> On Sat, 13 Apr 2024 12:37:44 +0100, Fredxx wrote:
>
>> On 13/04/2024 07:24, Tim+ wrote:
>>> PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
>>>> A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably
>>>> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
>>>> The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs
>>>> sharpening, to be polite about it.
>>>> I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
>>>> handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He
>>>> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
>>>> I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's
>>>> no lead-in and it sits right down.
>>>>
>>>> Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off,
>>>> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a
>>>> lot of plastic under there.
>>>
>>> Are you certain it isn’t a reverse thread? I cheap electric impact driver
>>> is great for jobs like these.
>>
>> I was thinking the same. I've been caught out before. Many rotary mowers
>> are intended to spin in a specific direction that deposits clippings to
>> one side. I'm pretty sure the couple I have dealt with have been
>> ordinary RH threads.
>>
>> Only the OP will know if the bolt moved in the attempt to undo the bolt.
>> If it did and then wouldn't move any more I'd be tempted to 'tighten'
>> the bolt to see if it moves and undoes.
>
> Right, sorry about no model but it's very similar to my still broken one
> (coil poss. but getting help to check for spark is difficult as it needs
> strength and some skill, which most seem to lack!).
> I always remove the cap from the plug - I don't want to 'bump start' it!
> The bolts are RH thread.
> Hammer, with as much preload as I can manage, tried with sharp blows.
> One undid; the other didn't move at all.
> I can try a torch (got 2 'asbestos' mats) but not too hot, then put oil on
> to cool it and, hopefully, the oil will be 'sucked' in.
> Tyre place - getting something that size on the bus...
>
> Now, impact driver. Seems best but I don't have the fittings to get from 6mm
> hex to 3/8" square - the hex stem sockets stop 1mm short. Been looking but
> can't see anything.
>

On this one, the two bolts seem conventional and CCW removal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6H1Vvs3Ph4o

| |
| |
| | | xxxH
(engine) | | |
| | | xxxH
| |
| |
Plate Blade Blade

I still can't see how you'd distort
that enough, to jam the thread. If there
was a blade strike, the one bolt you did get
out should also have caused grief.

Paul

On 13/04/2024 13:36, Davey wrote:
> Note his final sentence:
> " I wondered about using a torch but there's a
> lot of plastic under there."
>
> Not a pretty sight if that catches fire.

Heat up a sacrificial socket to red heat, then put it on the bolt head
to transfer it heat to the bolt.

On 14/04/2024 21:58, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
> On 13/04/2024 13:36, Davey wrote:
>> Note his final sentence:
>> " I wondered about using a torch but there's a
>> lot of plastic under there."
>>
>> Not a pretty sight if that catches fire.
>
> Heat up a sacrificial socket to red heat, then put it on the bolt head
> to transfer it heat to the bolt.

Heating up the bolt will cause it to expand and grip whatever it's in
even tighter. You need to heat up the bolt then pour ice-cold water on
it in the hope that it'll contract away from whatever it's in faster
than whatever it's in contracts to grip the bolt again!

--
Jeff

On 4/15/2024 5:54 AM, Jeff Layman wrote:
> On 14/04/2024 21:58, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
>> On 13/04/2024 13:36, Davey wrote:
>>> Note his final sentence:
>>> " I wondered about using a torch but there's a
>>> lot of plastic under there."
>>>
>>> Not a pretty sight if that catches fire.
>>
>> Heat up a sacrificial socket to red heat, then put it on the bolt head
>> to transfer it heat to the bolt.
>
> Heating up the bolt will cause it to expand and grip whatever it's in even tighter. You need to heat up the bolt then pour ice-cold water on it in the hope that it'll contract away from whatever it's in faster than whatever it's in contracts to grip the bolt again!
>

I would look at the bolt that was
removable, for hints about what
it would take to stop the
removal of the other one.

The thing is probably cross-threaded
or stripped by overtorque or there is Red Loktite.
If it had been to a shop, maybe someone
used a power tool on it, when they should have
been using a torque wrench like the service
manual said to do.

The thread length on the plate, may be
too short for a simple rust job to hold
it that securely. Applying a "rust busting"
recipe, might be a waste of time.

I don't know if heat is enough to
degrade Red (permanent) Loktite or not.

Even examining the back of the plate, where
the bolt comes through, may give a hint how
it's been abused. A dental inspection mirror
might work.

Paul

On Sun, 14 Apr 2024 17:59:58 +0100, PeterC wrote:

> On 13 Apr 2024 18:30:42 GMT, David wrote:
>
>>> Now, impact driver. Seems best but I don't have the fittings to get from
>>> 6mm hex to 3/8" square - the hex stem sockets stop 1mm short. Been
>>> looking but can't see anything.
>>
>> Is this the kind of thing?
>> <https://www.amazon.co.uk/Impact-Socket-Adapter-Extension-Driver/dp/
>> B077KT6239/?th=1>
>>
>> It should certainly work in a cordless drill with an SDS setting.
>>
>> Not sure where my set is at the moment so I can't immediately check with
>> my impact driver.
>
> Thanks - ordered adaptors and an impact socket

Oh dear, still no good.
Heated it locally, penetrating oil on hot bolt so that it might take in some
as it cooled.
Used impact driver with new socket and adaptor. No effect at all; this might
be due to the ~10 yo 12V Makita ID.
Chap down the road works on cars on a professional basis (e.g. _complete_
stripdown, overhaul and rebuild of a BFO Range Rover engine). He has
air-driven gear for wheel nuts - methinks build up slowly, as an 8mm bolt
might shear.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway