Well that worked rather well - wish I had done something similar years ago:

https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Ride_on_mower_grass_deflector

It projects about 13" from the back of the mower, and is about 11" tall.
It is about 50% bigger than the exit of the grass chute. It turns the
airstream downwards and blows the grass neatly onto the ground.

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
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|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

On 15/04/2024 21:01, John Rumm wrote:
> Well that worked rather well - wish I had done something similar years ago:
>
> https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Ride_on_mower_grass_deflector
>
> It projects about 13" from the back of the mower, and is about 11" tall.
> It is about 50% bigger than the exit of the grass chute. It turns the
> airstream downwards and blows the grass neatly onto the ground.
>
>

Yep, incredibly wet this year, like driving on a blancmange. I attempted
the first cut of the year yesterday, in absolute desperation. I only
managed to cut most of it, what was left, took hours of struggling in
wellies, with a strimmer - too wet to drive on.

For when it's a bit less wet, I tried a small, hinged, alloy deflector
at the outlet, where you fitted your modification. My version, made the
choking worse - I fancy trying your version this time around.

John Rumm <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:
> Well that worked rather well - wish I had done something similar years ago:
>
> https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Ride_on_mower_grass_deflector

For a regular push mower, I've found wedging a piece of batten or similar to
partially open the flap that would normally cover the hole where the grass
box goes works wonders. If you aren't collecting the grass it blows it out
the back enough to clear the mower, meaning it won't clog up underneath the
machine. By partially wedging it open the flap directs it downwards behind
the mower for the effect you describe, and avoids twigs or stones being
thrown up towards you.

Makes it so much easier to mow as well, because the clippings don't build up
underneath and snag the blade.

Theo

On 15/04/2024 22:21, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
> On 15/04/2024 21:01, John Rumm wrote:
>> Well that worked rather well - wish I had done something similar years
>> ago:
>>
>> https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Ride_on_mower_grass_deflector
>>
>> It projects about 13" from the back of the mower, and is about 11"
>> tall. It is about 50% bigger than the exit of the grass chute. It
>> turns the airstream downwards and blows the grass neatly onto the ground.
>>
>>
>
> Yep, incredibly wet this year, like driving on a blancmange. I attempted
> the first cut of the year yesterday, in absolute desperation. I only
> managed to cut most of it, what was left, took hours of struggling in
> wellies, with a strimmer - too wet to drive on.
>
> For when it's a bit less wet, I tried a small, hinged, alloy deflector
> at the outlet, where you fitted your modification. My version, made the
> choking worse - I fancy trying your version this time around.

You're doing better than us. Our garden is so sodden that I've come
close to losing a shoe simply by trying to walk to the shed.
Mowing/strimming is simply not happening.

On 15/04/2024 22:21, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
> Yep, incredibly wet this year, like driving on a blancmange. I attempted
> the first cut of the year yesterday, in absolute desperation. I only
> managed to cut most of it, what was left, took hours of struggling in
> wellies, with a strimmer - too wet to drive on.

There was a patch on our lawn where the grass grew very long and very
thick, but the ground was too wet even to walk on (with a walk-behind
mower) let alone to risk driving my ride-on mower across.

I waited as long as I could for the ground to become less squelchy and
then cut it first with a strimmer to get it as short as possible to help
the ground to dry in the sun and wind, and then eventually I went over
with the walk-behind mower to collect as much as possible before (when I
dared!) cutting it with the ride-on mower which mulches.

I've raked up as much of the thatch of grass that cutting created but
which was not collected by the mower, but that whole area looks as if it
has been attacked with a flame thrower and then liberally trampled by
hundreds of people. Hopefully it will improve as the year progresses.

Fortunately most of the lawn was dry enough to drive the ride-on across,
after a few walk-behind cuts to begin with. Some parts are bare earth
where our pond filled so full that it flooded patches of the adjacent
lawn and killed the grass, but that will gradually re-grow. It's just
this one area that grew incredibly long and was luxuriant green at the
tips but yellow and rotten-looking at ground level - the colour that
grass cuttings go a couple of weeks after cutting the lawn, but still
attached by roots in the ground.

On 15/04/2024 22:21, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
> On 15/04/2024 21:01, John Rumm wrote:
>> Well that worked rather well - wish I had done something similar years
>> ago:
>>
>> https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Ride_on_mower_grass_deflector
>>
>> It projects about 13" from the back of the mower, and is about 11"
>> tall. It is about 50% bigger than the exit of the grass chute. It
>> turns the airstream downwards and blows the grass neatly onto the ground.
>>
>>
>
> Yep, incredibly wet this year, like driving on a blancmange. I attempted
> the first cut of the year yesterday, in absolute desperation. I only
> managed to cut most of it, what was left, took hours of struggling in
> wellies, with a strimmer - too wet to drive on.

I have been waiting weeks to be able to have any chance of driving on
it. It was still soft going but I could at least move without getting
stuck... Just wanted another few dry days, and, it rained again today!

> For when it's a bit less wet, I tried a small, hinged, alloy deflector
> at the outlet, where you fitted your modification. My version, made the
> choking worse - I fancy trying your version this time around.

I was trying to impede the air flow as little as possible - and also
make it a gentle ish curve. I was not holding out much hope, but it did
seem to do the job.

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
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|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

On 15/04/2024 22:37, SteveW wrote:
> On 15/04/2024 22:21, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
>> On 15/04/2024 21:01, John Rumm wrote:
>>> Well that worked rather well - wish I had done something similar
>>> years ago:
>>>
>>> https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Ride_on_mower_grass_deflector
>>>
>>> It projects about 13" from the back of the mower, and is about 11"
>>> tall. It is about 50% bigger than the exit of the grass chute. It
>>> turns the airstream downwards and blows the grass neatly onto the
>>> ground.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Yep, incredibly wet this year, like driving on a blancmange. I
>> attempted the first cut of the year yesterday, in absolute
>> desperation. I only managed to cut most of it, what was left, took
>> hours of struggling in wellies, with a strimmer - too wet to drive on.
>>
>> For when it's a bit less wet, I tried a small, hinged, alloy deflector
>> at the outlet, where you fitted your modification. My version, made
>> the choking worse - I fancy trying your version this time around.
>
> You're doing better than us. Our garden is so sodden that I've come
> close to losing a shoe simply by trying to walk to the shed.
> Mowing/strimming is simply not happening.

Some bits of mine were like that last week... That's the thing about
clay soil - it seem to go from too wet to too dry in the space of a
fortnight :-)

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

On 15/04/2024 21:01, John Rumm wrote:
> It projects about 13" from the back of the mower, and is about 11" tall.
> It is about 50% bigger than the exit of the grass chute. It turns the
> airstream downwards and blows the grass neatly onto the ground.

The deflector does work rather well :-)

I made one this morning!

I cut the curve on a 12" radius, from some scrap block board. For the
curved panel, I used a piece of scrap, thin alloy sheet, just tacked
onto the edge of the block board, with galvanised roofing nails. Like
you, I fixed a piece of timber along the top, using a couple of steel L
brackets, then (like you) tested it with a couple of spring clamps...

It worked, so the next trick, was to find a way to keep it in position,
but still allow it to be hinged up to unclog the duct when it did become
blocked. My first idea was to add hinges, but instead simply installed
two 6mm roofing bolts, fixed onto the flat steel bracket that the timber
rests upon, thread protruding up, so it simply retains the timber in
place, rather than bolted through the timber. That way, the deflector
can simply be lifted off, without need for any tools at all, or hinged
up to clear the duct.

The next trick, is to devise some way to confirm the blades are actually
rotating, without needing anyone to look, whilst I remain seated on the
tractor. Maybe a strong magnet, fixed to a rotating part, passing a
coil, which generates enough current to illuminate an LED?

On 19/04/2024 15:10, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
> On 15/04/2024 21:01, John Rumm wrote:
>> It projects about 13" from the back of the mower, and is about 11"
>> tall. It is about 50% bigger than the exit of the grass chute. It
>> turns the airstream downwards and blows the grass neatly onto the ground.
>
> The deflector does work rather well :-)
>
> I made one this morning!
>
> I cut the curve on a 12" radius, from some scrap block board. For the
> curved panel, I used a piece of scrap, thin alloy sheet, just tacked
> onto the edge of the block board, with galvanised roofing nails. Like
> you, I fixed a piece of timber along the top, using a couple of steel L
> brackets, then (like you) tested it with a couple of spring clamps...
>
> It worked, so the next trick, was to find a way to keep it in position,
> but still allow it to be hinged up to unclog the duct when it did become
> blocked.

I did contemplate a more "sophisticated" solution, but figured I will
probably only need it for one cut per year, so will probably stay with
the spring clamps.

> My first idea was to add hinges, but instead simply installed
> two 6mm roofing bolts, fixed onto the flat steel bracket that the timber
> rests upon, thread protruding up, so it simply retains the timber in
> place, rather than bolted through the timber. That way, the deflector
> can simply be lifted off, without need for any tools at all, or hinged
> up to clear the duct.
>
> The next trick, is to devise some way to confirm the blades are actually
> rotating, without needing anyone to look, whilst I remain seated on the
> tractor.

I find mine makes significantly more noise with the blades running - not
to mention the sound of the airflow from them.

Also I got fed up with most of the interlocks, and have defeated the
ones that "require" someone be sat on it, that the grass collector be
fitted, and possibly the one that stops the blades running when in
reverse (can't remember if I knobbled it or it just stopped working).

That makes it much easier to clear a blockage now - I can get off with
the blades running and poke a sacrificial stick down its chute to wiggle
the stuck grass enough for the airflow to blow it free.

> Maybe a strong magnet, fixed to a rotating part, passing a
> coil, which generates enough current to illuminate an LED?

Or a white mark on the PTO pully, and an optical RPM sensor of some sort?

Say a LED illuminator, a photo transistor, with its output charging a
cap feeding your indicator etc. Or if being fancy stick and arduino in
there to drive a LCD panel and show a real RPM.

(or magnet and hall effect sensor)

Normally when I notice it sounds like the blades are running a bit slow,
it indicates that the deck belt has jumped a pulley somewhere and is
dragging on something it should not be. Last time the blue smoke and
smell of burning rubber was also a clue! So I took the deck off, bent
the reversing pulley spindle upright again, and took the chance to weld
up any other bits that showed signs of cracking where they fix to the
body of the deck.

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

On Sat, 20 Apr 2024 01:15:14 +0100
John Rumm <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

> I find mine makes significantly more noise with the blades running -
> not to mention the sound of the airflow from them.
>
> Also I got fed up with most of the interlocks, and have defeated the
> ones that "require" someone be sat on it, that the grass collector be
> fitted, and possibly the one that stops the blades running when in
> reverse (can't remember if I knobbled it or it just stopped working).
>
> That makes it much easier to clear a blockage now - I can get off
> with the blades running and poke a sacrificial stick down its chute
> to wiggle the stuck grass enough for the airflow to blow it free.

We used to have a very good local gardener, who had had his gangrenous
right arm chopped off during his time working on the Burma Railway
during the war. We had a self-powered walk-behind mower, and he had
made some simple changes to be able to use it more easily with only one
hand. After he died, I took the mower out to use it myself, and found
that it now failed unsafe, i.e. if you let everything go, it would just
continue on at the same speed as it had been going, instead of stopping.

Beware of bypassing safeties. I understand the feeling, but they are
there for a reason, and ones that prevent the blade rotating are
particularly important, however awkward in use.

--
Davey.

On 20/04/2024 14:09, Davey wrote:
> On Sat, 20 Apr 2024 01:15:14 +0100
> John Rumm <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:
>
>> I find mine makes significantly more noise with the blades running -
>> not to mention the sound of the airflow from them.
>>
>> Also I got fed up with most of the interlocks, and have defeated the
>> ones that "require" someone be sat on it, that the grass collector be
>> fitted, and possibly the one that stops the blades running when in
>> reverse (can't remember if I knobbled it or it just stopped working).
>>
>> That makes it much easier to clear a blockage now - I can get off
>> with the blades running and poke a sacrificial stick down its chute
>> to wiggle the stuck grass enough for the airflow to blow it free.
>
> We used to have a very good local gardener, who had had his gangrenous
> right arm chopped off during his time working on the Burma Railway
> during the war. We had a self-powered walk-behind mower, and he had
> made some simple changes to be able to use it more easily with only one
> hand. After he died, I took the mower out to use it myself, and found
> that it now failed unsafe, i.e. if you let everything go, it would just
> continue on at the same speed as it had been going, instead of stopping.

With a "self propelled" traditional mower, that could be an issue
certainly. Less so on a ride on that needs a foot on the accelerator to
keep it moving.

> Beware of bypassing safeties. I understand the feeling, but they are
> there for a reason,

Indeed - but often that reason is not an actual concern about safety, or
at least one that will apply in all cases.

> and ones that prevent the blade rotating are
> particularly important, however awkward in use.

Much depends on your use cases...

The only case I can see where having the blades stop without a rider
present would be particularly important, is if you need to mow on slopes
or near to drops etc, where the mower could slip, fall, or tip over and
there would be scope for you to end up under it. On flat open spaces,
there does not appear to be any particular risk.

The interlock to stop mowing without the grass collector fitted is
presumably only there to stop you spraying grass all over the place. In
this case that was what I wanted (and to be fair it would have been easy
to make my redirector actuate that interlock if I had not already
disabled it for other reasons)

The reverse operation interlock perhaps makes it less likely you will
reverse into something you can't see - but again it seems to be more of
a nuisance that an benefit if there are "dead end" areas that you need
to drive into and reverse out to mow, or narrow strips with inadequate
space to turn. In both cases you still need to use reverse - just more
often if you can't cut a second strip on the return movement.

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

On Sat, 20 Apr 2024 18:09:44 +0100
John Rumm <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

> On 20/04/2024 14:09, Davey wrote:
> > On Sat, 20 Apr 2024 01:15:14 +0100
> > John Rumm <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:
> >
> >> I find mine makes significantly more noise with the blades running
> >> - not to mention the sound of the airflow from them.
> >>
> >> Also I got fed up with most of the interlocks, and have defeated
> >> the ones that "require" someone be sat on it, that the grass
> >> collector be fitted, and possibly the one that stops the blades
> >> running when in reverse (can't remember if I knobbled it or it
> >> just stopped working).
> >>
> >> That makes it much easier to clear a blockage now - I can get off
> >> with the blades running and poke a sacrificial stick down its chute
> >> to wiggle the stuck grass enough for the airflow to blow it free.
> >
> > We used to have a very good local gardener, who had had his
> > gangrenous right arm chopped off during his time working on the
> > Burma Railway during the war. We had a self-powered walk-behind
> > mower, and he had made some simple changes to be able to use it
> > more easily with only one hand. After he died, I took the mower out
> > to use it myself, and found that it now failed unsafe, i.e. if you
> > let everything go, it would just continue on at the same speed as
> > it had been going, instead of stopping.
>
> With a "self propelled" traditional mower, that could be an issue
> certainly. Less so on a ride on that needs a foot on the accelerator
> to keep it moving.
>
> > Beware of bypassing safeties. I understand the feeling, but they are
> > there for a reason,
>
> Indeed - but often that reason is not an actual concern about safety,
> or at least one that will apply in all cases.
>
> > and ones that prevent the blade rotating are
> > particularly important, however awkward in use.
>
> Much depends on your use cases...
>
> The only case I can see where having the blades stop without a rider
> present would be particularly important, is if you need to mow on
> slopes or near to drops etc, where the mower could slip, fall, or tip
> over and there would be scope for you to end up under it. On flat
> open spaces, there does not appear to be any particular risk.
>
> The interlock to stop mowing without the grass collector fitted is
> presumably only there to stop you spraying grass all over the place.
> In this case that was what I wanted (and to be fair it would have
> been easy to make my redirector actuate that interlock if I had not
> already disabled it for other reasons)
>
> The reverse operation interlock perhaps makes it less likely you will
> reverse into something you can't see - but again it seems to be more
> of a nuisance that an benefit if there are "dead end" areas that you
> need to drive into and reverse out to mow, or narrow strips with
> inadequate space to turn. In both cases you still need to use reverse
> - just more often if you can't cut a second strip on the return
> movement.
>

My Hayter ride-on has no interlock associated with the grass catcher or
reversing, so I don't have to worry about them. It is puzzling, though,
in that the speed while in reverse is faster than the slowest forward
speed, so precision back-and forth operation can be 'interesting'.
The engine stops if the rider leaves the seat, and the only occasion I
want to bypass that is when I want to use up the fuel in the
carburettor, and I can keep pressure on the seat while getting off it
to close the fuel valve.

Mow safely....

--
Davey.

In message <v00epn$3lrdb$1@dont-email.me>, Davey <davey@example.invalid>
writes
>On Sat, 20 Apr 2024 01:15:14 +0100
>John Rumm <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:
>
>> I find mine makes significantly more noise with the blades running -
>> not to mention the sound of the airflow from them.
>>
>> Also I got fed up with most of the interlocks, and have defeated the
>> ones that "require" someone be sat on it, that the grass collector be
>> fitted, and possibly the one that stops the blades running when in
>> reverse (can't remember if I knobbled it or it just stopped working).
>>
>> That makes it much easier to clear a blockage now - I can get off
>> with the blades running and poke a sacrificial stick down its chute
>> to wiggle the stuck grass enough for the airflow to blow it free.
>
>We used to have a very good local gardener, who had had his gangrenous
>right arm chopped off during his time working on the Burma Railway
>during the war. We had a self-powered walk-behind mower, and he had
>made some simple changes to be able to use it more easily with only one
>hand. After he died, I took the mower out to use it myself, and found
>that it now failed unsafe, i.e. if you let everything go, it would just
>continue on at the same speed as it had been going, instead of stopping.
>
>Beware of bypassing safeties. I understand the feeling, but they are
>there for a reason, and ones that prevent the blade rotating are
>particularly important, however awkward in use.

Hmm. There are safeties and *features*..

I use a Jonserad ride on mower which has endless *Swedish* safety
interlocks. Poking a twig down the outlet duct with the cutter running
might be a step too far but:-

Special start switch position for reversing with cutter engaged? Why?

Interlock preventing operation without the cuttings collector fitted?
Why? Mine has a Croc clip in the toolbox to overcome this issue.

Drivers seat interlock seems reasonable as does starting with the brakes
engaged.

The thing they missed is a fuel stopcock! High mounted tank overfills
carburettor while parked leading to an exhaust explosion when next
started. I also fitted a fuel filter to mine.
>

--
Tim Lamb

On 20/04/2024 18:26, Davey wrote:
> On Sat, 20 Apr 2024 18:09:44 +0100
> John Rumm <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:
>
>> On 20/04/2024 14:09, Davey wrote:
>>> On Sat, 20 Apr 2024 01:15:14 +0100
>>> John Rumm <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I find mine makes significantly more noise with the blades running
>>>> - not to mention the sound of the airflow from them.
>>>>
>>>> Also I got fed up with most of the interlocks, and have defeated
>>>> the ones that "require" someone be sat on it, that the grass
>>>> collector be fitted, and possibly the one that stops the blades
>>>> running when in reverse (can't remember if I knobbled it or it
>>>> just stopped working).
>>>>
>>>> That makes it much easier to clear a blockage now - I can get off
>>>> with the blades running and poke a sacrificial stick down its chute
>>>> to wiggle the stuck grass enough for the airflow to blow it free.
>>>
>>> We used to have a very good local gardener, who had had his
>>> gangrenous right arm chopped off during his time working on the
>>> Burma Railway during the war. We had a self-powered walk-behind
>>> mower, and he had made some simple changes to be able to use it
>>> more easily with only one hand. After he died, I took the mower out
>>> to use it myself, and found that it now failed unsafe, i.e. if you
>>> let everything go, it would just continue on at the same speed as
>>> it had been going, instead of stopping.
>>
>> With a "self propelled" traditional mower, that could be an issue
>> certainly. Less so on a ride on that needs a foot on the accelerator
>> to keep it moving.
>>
>>> Beware of bypassing safeties. I understand the feeling, but they are
>>> there for a reason,
>>
>> Indeed - but often that reason is not an actual concern about safety,
>> or at least one that will apply in all cases.
>>
>>> and ones that prevent the blade rotating are
>>> particularly important, however awkward in use.
>>
>> Much depends on your use cases...
>>
>> The only case I can see where having the blades stop without a rider
>> present would be particularly important, is if you need to mow on
>> slopes or near to drops etc, where the mower could slip, fall, or tip
>> over and there would be scope for you to end up under it. On flat
>> open spaces, there does not appear to be any particular risk.
>>
>> The interlock to stop mowing without the grass collector fitted is
>> presumably only there to stop you spraying grass all over the place.
>> In this case that was what I wanted (and to be fair it would have
>> been easy to make my redirector actuate that interlock if I had not
>> already disabled it for other reasons)
>>
>> The reverse operation interlock perhaps makes it less likely you will
>> reverse into something you can't see - but again it seems to be more
>> of a nuisance that an benefit if there are "dead end" areas that you
>> need to drive into and reverse out to mow, or narrow strips with
>> inadequate space to turn. In both cases you still need to use reverse
>> - just more often if you can't cut a second strip on the return
>> movement.
>>
>
> My Hayter ride-on has no interlock associated with the grass catcher or
> reversing, so I don't have to worry about them. It is puzzling, though,
> in that the speed while in reverse is faster than the slowest forward
> speed, so precision back-and forth operation can be 'interesting'.

Is it a geared design? (mine is a so called "hydrostatic" one -
basically belts with "throttle" adjustable tensioner - so you an go same
speed forward or reverse)

> The engine stops if the rider leaves the seat, and the only occasion I
> want to bypass that is when I want to use up the fuel in the
> carburettor, and I can keep pressure on the seat while getting off it
> to close the fuel valve.

The engine stops on mine if the seat lifts (it is hinged at the front),
so would still stop of the mower tipped enough. However I took off the
print that pushes it up a bit when weight is not applied.

> Mow safely....

About the worst mischief I have managed was to get it to try an ingest a
manhole cover... it did not like that. The manhole cover was not
impressed either!

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

On 20/04/2024 18:26, Tim Lamb wrote:
> In message <v00epn$3lrdb$1@dont-email.me>, Davey <davey@example.invalid>
> writes
>> On Sat, 20 Apr 2024 01:15:14 +0100
>> John Rumm <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:
>>
>>> I find mine makes significantly more noise with the blades running -
>>> not to mention the sound of the airflow from them.
>>>
>>> Also I got fed up with most of the interlocks, and have defeated the
>>> ones that "require" someone be sat on it, that the grass collector be
>>> fitted, and possibly the one that stops the blades running when in
>>> reverse (can't remember if I knobbled it or it just stopped working).
>>>
>>> That makes it much easier to clear a blockage now - I can get off
>>> with the blades running and poke a sacrificial stick down its chute
>>> to wiggle the stuck grass enough for the airflow to blow it free.
>>
>> We used to have a very good local gardener, who had had his gangrenous
>> right arm chopped off during his time working on the Burma Railway
>> during the war. We had a self-powered walk-behind mower, and he had
>> made some simple changes to be able to use it more easily with only one
>> hand. After he died, I took the mower out to use it myself, and found
>> that it now failed unsafe, i.e. if you let everything go, it would just
>> continue on at the same speed as it had been going, instead of stopping.
>>
>> Beware of bypassing safeties. I understand the feeling, but they are
>> there for a reason, and ones that prevent the blade rotating are
>> particularly important, however awkward in use.
>
> Hmm. There are safeties and *features*..
>
> I use a Jonserad ride on mower which has endless *Swedish* safety
> interlocks. Poking a twig down the outlet duct with the cutter running
> might be a step too far but:-
>
> Special start switch position for reversing with cutter engaged? Why?
>
> Interlock preventing operation without the cuttings collector fitted?
> Why? Mine has a Croc clip in the toolbox to overcome this issue.

Mine used to have a bamboo cane tied under the levers that are pushed up
when the collector is fitted. I worked out in the end, that just
unplugging the lead to the microswitch was enough to disable it.

>
> Drivers seat interlock seems reasonable as does starting with the brakes
> engaged.

Yup mine has a starting brake interlock - odd thing is that the mower
does not actually have any brakes :-)

>
> The thing they missed is a fuel stopcock! High mounted tank overfills
> carburettor while parked leading to an exhaust explosion when next
> started. I also fitted a fuel filter to mine.

Mine had a filter as standard, but no fuel shut off.

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

On Sat, 20 Apr 2024 19:48:56 +0100
John Rumm <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

> > My Hayter ride-on has no interlock associated with the grass
> > catcher or reversing, so I don't have to worry about them. It is
> > puzzling, though, in that the speed while in reverse is faster than
> > the slowest forward speed, so precision back-and forth operation
> > can be 'interesting'.
>
> Is it a geared design? (mine is a so called "hydrostatic" one -
> basically belts with "throttle" adjustable tensioner - so you an go
> same speed forward or reverse)

Yes, 6 speeds forward, one reverse. We had a 'Snapper' in the US that
had a rubber-tyred disc that ran in and out on a rotating disc driven
by the engine, to give a DAF-like transmission. It seemed horribly
crude, but in fact worked well.

--
Davey.

On 21/04/2024 00:31, Davey wrote:
> On Sat, 20 Apr 2024 19:48:56 +0100
> John Rumm <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:
>
>>> My Hayter ride-on has no interlock associated with the grass
>>> catcher or reversing, so I don't have to worry about them. It is
>>> puzzling, though, in that the speed while in reverse is faster than
>>> the slowest forward speed, so precision back-and forth operation
>>> can be 'interesting'.
>>
>> Is it a geared design? (mine is a so called "hydrostatic" one -
>> basically belts with "throttle" adjustable tensioner - so you an go
>> same speed forward or reverse)
>
> Yes, 6 speeds forward, one reverse. We had a 'Snapper' in the US that
> had a rubber-tyred disc that ran in and out on a rotating disc driven
> by the engine, to give a DAF-like transmission. It seemed horribly
> crude, but in fact worked well.

The design on mine is pretty crude as well:

https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:Lawnflite703IdlerWheels.jpg

Those two wheels are mounted on a flat bar on the end of a shaft -
pushing the accelerator just rotates the shaft - progressively
lengthening the path the belt needs to take. It seems to give pretty
smooth and proportional speed control.

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

On 16/04/2024 00:55, John Rumm wrote:
> On 15/04/2024 22:21, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
>> On 15/04/2024 21:01, John Rumm wrote:
>>> Well that worked rather well - wish I had done something similar
>>> years ago:
>>>
>>> https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Ride_on_mower_grass_deflector
>>>
>>> It projects about 13" from the back of the mower, and is about 11"
>>> tall. It is about 50% bigger than the exit of the grass chute. It
>>> turns the airstream downwards and blows the grass neatly onto the
>>> ground.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Yep, incredibly wet this year, like driving on a blancmange. I
>> attempted the first cut of the year yesterday, in absolute
>> desperation. I only managed to cut most of it, what was left, took
>> hours of struggling in wellies, with a strimmer - too wet to drive on.
>
> I have been waiting weeks to be able to have any chance of driving on
> it. It was still soft going but I could at least move without getting
> stuck... Just wanted another few dry days, and, it rained again today!
>
>> For when it's a bit less wet, I tried a small, hinged, alloy deflector
>> at the outlet, where you fitted your modification. My version, made
>> the choking worse - I fancy trying your version this time around.
>
> I was trying to impede the air flow as little as possible - and also
> make it a gentle ish curve. I was not holding out much hope, but it did
> seem to do the job.
>
>

How about a bold upgrade :-)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255567713928?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338365712&toolid=20006&customid=EB209928167&

On 20/04/2024 18:09, John Rumm wrote:
> Indeed - but often that reason is not an actual concern about safety, or
> at least one that will apply in all cases.

Mine is similar to John's, and I found the safety interlocks completely
OTT. Like John, I defeated the cutting collector safety. It also cuts
the engine, if you try to reverse with the PTO engaged for the deck, as
I have one area, where I have to shuffle back and forth several times to
cut it, I ended up defeating that too - I could think of a valid reason
to need that.

Like John's it has one where it cuts the engine, if you leave the seat,
but fail to put the handbrake on. I have so far, left that in place.

On 20/04/2024 18:26, Davey wrote:
> The engine stops if the rider leaves the seat, and the only occasion I
> want to bypass that is when I want to use up the fuel in the
> carburettor, and I can keep pressure on the seat while getting off it
> to close the fuel valve.

Doesn't applying the handbrake, allow you to do that?

On 21/04/2024 00:31, Davey wrote:
> Yes, 6 speeds forward, one reverse. We had a 'Snapper' in the US that
> had a rubber-tyred disc that ran in and out on a rotating disc driven
> by the engine, to give a DAF-like transmission. It seemed horribly
> crude, but in fact worked well.

Variomatic?

In message <v05e43$t3th$1@dont-email.me>, Andrew
<Andrew97d@btinternet.com> writes
>On 16/04/2024 00:55, John Rumm wrote:
>> On 15/04/2024 22:21, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
>>> On 15/04/2024 21:01, John Rumm wrote:
>>>> Well that worked rather well - wish I had done something similar
>>>>years ago:
>>>>
>>>> https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Ride_on_mower_grass_deflector
>>>>
>>>> It projects about 13" from the back of the mower, and is about 11"
>>>>tall. It is about 50% bigger than the exit of the grass chute. It
>>>>turns the airstream downwards and blows the grass neatly onto the ground.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Yep, incredibly wet this year, like driving on a blancmange. I
>>>attempted the first cut of the year yesterday, in absolute
>>>desperation. I only managed to cut most of it, what was left, took
>>>hours of struggling in wellies, with a strimmer - too wet to drive on.
>> I have been waiting weeks to be able to have any chance of driving
>>on it. It was still soft going but I could at least move without
>>getting stuck... Just wanted another few dry days, and, it rained
>>again today!
>>
>>> For when it's a bit less wet, I tried a small, hinged, alloy
>>>deflector at the outlet, where you fitted your modification. My
>>>version, made the choking worse - I fancy trying your version this
>>>time around.
>> I was trying to impede the air flow as little as possible - and also
>>make it a gentle ish curve. I was not holding out much hope, but it
>>did seem to do the job.
>>
>
>How about a bold upgrade :-)
>
>https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255567713928?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-
>19255-0&campid=5338365712&toolid=20006&customid=EB209928167&

Excellent tool until the combine harvester ingests a car tyre that has
been flung over the roadside hedge!

--
Tim Lamb

On 21/04/2024 14:05, John Rumm wrote:
>
> https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:Lawnflite703IdlerWheels.jpg

That deck belt, looks as 'tired' as my deck belt :-)

The easy way to work on the underside, is to simply tip it over on it's
side, carburettor side uppermost. Put a milk crate or similar on the far
side, lift so it rests on the crate, then gradually lower it to a
suitable working angle. Much easier with two, but I have managed it on
my own, using the 'motorbike lift' - legs bent, mower behind you, grab
hold with gloved hands, and straighten your legs. Easier to lift, with
the cutting deck dropped off first.

Turned on it's side, with the carb down, the intake gets sump oil into it.

On Mon, 22 Apr 2024 11:48:30 +0100
Harry Bloomfield Esq <a@harrym1byt.plus.com> wrote:

> On 20/04/2024 18:26, Davey wrote:
> > The engine stops if the rider leaves the seat, and the only
> > occasion I want to bypass that is when I want to use up the fuel in
> > the carburettor, and I can keep pressure on the seat while getting
> > off it to close the fuel valve.
>
> Doesn't applying the handbrake, allow you to do that?

Not on my mower. The 'Handbrake' is a tiny piece of metal that holds
the footbrake down, I would not trust it with anything important.

--
Davey.

On Mon, 22 Apr 2024 11:51:11 +0100
Harry Bloomfield Esq <a@harrym1byt.plus.com> wrote:

> On 21/04/2024 00:31, Davey wrote:
> > Yes, 6 speeds forward, one reverse. We had a 'Snapper' in the US
> > that had a rubber-tyred disc that ran in and out on a rotating disc
> > driven by the engine, to give a DAF-like transmission. It seemed
> > horribly crude, but in fact worked well.
>
> Variomatic?

A similar effect, but done differently.

--
Davey.