I've just dug out a long unused Hozelock AC1 automatic watering timer.
The internal valve actuator seems to work, making the expected noise, but
the valve only partially closes.

I can't see service details on the Hozelock site.
I've posted a query but have not yet had confirmation that it has been
accepted....ah, yes it has.
Response in 3-5 working days.

I am wondering it the internals are easy to get at and no ping/fuckit
traps for the unwary.

TIA

Dave R

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David wrote:

> I've just dug out a long unused Hozelock AC1 automatic watering timer.
> The internal valve actuator seems to work, making the expected noise, but
> the valve only partially closes.
>
> I can't see service details on the Hozelock site.
> I've posted a query but have not yet had confirmation that it has been
> accepted....ah, yes it has.
> Response in 3-5 working days.
>
> I am wondering it the internals are easy to get at and no ping/fuckit
> traps for the unwary.

doesn't look too pingfuckitty

<https://i.stack.imgur.com/I4wrO.jpg>

totally different from the claber ones, which use solenoid valves and magnets.

On 22/07/2022 15:39, Andy Burns wrote:
> David wrote:
>
>> I've just dug out a long unused Hozelock AC1 automatic watering timer.
>> The internal valve actuator seems to work, making the expected noise, but
>> the valve only partially closes.
>>
>> I can't see service details on the Hozelock site.
>> I've posted a query but have not yet had confirmation that it has been
>> accepted....ah, yes it has.
>> Response in 3-5 working days.
>>
>> I am wondering it the internals are easy to get at and no ping/fuckit
>> traps for the unwary.
>
> doesn't look too pingfuckitty
>
> <https://i.stack.imgur.com/I4wrO.jpg>
>
> totally different from the claber ones, which use solenoid valves and
> magnets.
>

I don't rate the Hozelock timers that highly. I've had 2 and both have
had water ingress to the pcb compartment that have damaged the pcb and
although I've repaired both* they both failed mechanically shortly
afterwards.

I've had longer life from cheap £15 timers from Ebay - but have noticed
recently that although the body remains the same the the controls have
morphed from two mechanical rotary switches to a LCD panel and push
buttons. have now morphed.

*I also drilled a drainage hole in the corner of the casing housing the
PCB to prevent a reoccurrence of the problem.

The OP may find that the flow of water is a lubricant to get the valve
to fully close

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On 22/07/2022 15:20, David wrote:
> I've just dug out a long unused Hozelock AC1 automatic watering timer.
> The internal valve actuator seems to work, making the expected noise, but
> the valve only partially closes.
>
> I can't see service details on the Hozelock site.
> I've posted a query but have not yet had confirmation that it has been
> accepted....ah, yes it has.
> Response in 3-5 working days.
>
> I am wondering it the internals are easy to get at and no ping/fuckit
> traps for the unwary.
>
> TIA
>
>
>
> Dave R
>
>

Someone stripping apart your timer...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMOXeWkm6pY

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On Fri, 22 Jul 2022 21:48:33 +0100, alan_m wrote:

> On 22/07/2022 15:20, David wrote:
>> I've just dug out a long unused Hozelock AC1 automatic watering timer.
>> The internal valve actuator seems to work, making the expected noise,
>> but the valve only partially closes.
>>
>> I can't see service details on the Hozelock site.
>> I've posted a query but have not yet had confirmation that it has been
>> accepted....ah, yes it has.
>> Response in 3-5 working days.
>>
>> I am wondering it the internals are easy to get at and no ping/fuckit
>> traps for the unwary.
>
> Someone stripping apart your timer...
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMOXeWkm6pY

Not quite the same timer, but similar.
The video shows inserting a table knife into the space between two bits of
grey plastic.
I've cautiously tried this but nothing seems to want to move and I'm
reluctant to use excessive force.

I've had a response from Hozelock customer support suggesting applying a
bit of vegetable oil to the top of the valve.
I've responded asking how to take the top off to do this.

We shall see.

Cheers

Dave R

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AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

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On 30/07/2022 19:10, David wrote:

> The video shows inserting a table knife into the space between two bits of
> grey plastic.
> I've cautiously tried this but nothing seems to want to move and I'm
> reluctant to use excessive force.

I seem to remember having to do this. I find something like a butter
knife works for this type of box. The blade of the butter knife being
straight allows pressure to be put on the complete side of the box -
perhaps wiggling it a bit to alternate the pressure first to the top of
the join and then the bottom. With a butter knife the spine side of the
blade may work better

The video obviously shows a unit that had been opened before and not
being opened for the first time

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On Sun, 31 Jul 2022 08:46:06 +0100, alan_m wrote:

> On 30/07/2022 19:10, David wrote:
>
>> The video shows inserting a table knife into the space between two bits
>> of grey plastic.
>> I've cautiously tried this but nothing seems to want to move and I'm
>> reluctant to use excessive force.
>
>
> I seem to remember having to do this. I find something like a butter
> knife works for this type of box. The blade of the butter knife being
> straight allows pressure to be put on the complete side of the box -
> perhaps wiggling it a bit to alternate the pressure first to the top of
> the join and then the bottom. With a butter knife the spine side of the
> blade may work better
>
> The video obviously shows a unit that had been opened before and not
> being opened for the first time

I have two slots, grey to grey and grey to yellow.
[Either side of the thin grey bit.]
The grey to yellow is deeper and shows flexibility.
However this doesn't mean that this is the join to lever safely!

Cheers

Dave R

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AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

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On Sun, 31 Jul 2022 11:50:07 +0000, David wrote:

> On Sun, 31 Jul 2022 08:46:06 +0100, alan_m wrote:
>
>> On 30/07/2022 19:10, David wrote:
>>
>>> The video shows inserting a table knife into the space between two
>>> bits of grey plastic.
>>> I've cautiously tried this but nothing seems to want to move and I'm
>>> reluctant to use excessive force.
>>
>>
>> I seem to remember having to do this. I find something like a butter
>> knife works for this type of box. The blade of the butter knife being
>> straight allows pressure to be put on the complete side of the box -
>> perhaps wiggling it a bit to alternate the pressure first to the top of
>> the join and then the bottom. With a butter knife the spine side of the
>> blade may work better
>>
>> The video obviously shows a unit that had been opened before and not
>> being opened for the first time
>
> I have two slots, grey to grey and grey to yellow.
> [Either side of the thin grey bit.]
> The grey to yellow is deeper and shows flexibility.
> However this doesn't mean that this is the join to lever safely!

Response from Hozelock says that adding a little vegetable oil from the
top does not involve taking the unit apart - it should just be applied
through the hose connector.

Will give that a go.

Cheers

Dave R

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On Thu, 04 Aug 2022 12:11:56 +0000, David wrote:

<snip>
>
> Response from Hozelock says that adding a little vegetable oil from the
> top does not involve taking the unit apart - it should just be applied
> through the hose connector.
>
> Will give that a go.

Hurrah!

The vegetable oil (rapeseed) did the trick and the timer is now working
again.

Cheers

Dave R

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AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

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