On Saturday, 28 July 2012 at 05:37:49 UTC+1, kbliznick wrote:
> > I just LOVE waiting forever for a pin (after Stern makes a good one--took it up the ass on Avatar LE and TFLE), then waiting forever to play it because of QC issues.
> New motor in, lasted a handful of games (if that) then the new one
> stopped working as well. What a POS. What cheap chinese motor did
> they put in this thing. What happened to using Multi-products motors?
>
> The set screw on the connectors directly on the motor shaft was a
> nightmare. It was glued in with lock-tite and even applying heat did
> not loosen it up. I had to drill it out after it stripped. Luckily
> the linkage was pre-drilled for set screws on both sides so I was able
> to use a cap head screw in the other side. Would have been nice if
> they had sent the entire assembly. The entire assembly comes out in
> under 2 minutes by removing the 4 screws, 2 connectors and 1 set screw
> (without loctite) at the cannon side of the linkage. However I then
> had to spend another hour dicking with that glued in set screw to get
> the motor off of the assembly only for the new motor to instantly fail.

On Tuesday, 6 June 2023 at 20:17:21 UTC+1, Jonathan Melleney wrote:
> On Saturday, 28 July 2012 at 05:37:49 UTC+1, kbliznick wrote:
> > > I just LOVE waiting forever for a pin (after Stern makes a good one--took it up the ass on Avatar LE and TFLE), then waiting forever to play it because of QC issues.
> > New motor in, lasted a handful of games (if that) then the new one
> > stopped working as well. What a POS. What cheap chinese motor did
> > they put in this thing. What happened to using Multi-products motors?
> >
> > The set screw on the connectors directly on the motor shaft was a
> > nightmare. It was glued in with lock-tite and even applying heat did
> > not loosen it up. I had to drill it out after it stripped. Luckily
> > the linkage was pre-drilled for set screws on both sides so I was able
> > to use a cap head screw in the other side. Would have been nice if
> > they had sent the entire assembly. The entire assembly comes out in
> > under 2 minutes by removing the 4 screws, 2 connectors and 1 set screw
> > (without loctite) at the cannon side of the linkage. However I then
> > had to spend another hour dicking with that glued in set screw to get
> > the motor off of the assembly only for the new motor to instantly fail.

@ Kbliznick How do you drill the grub screw out I have the same issue on a BIBLE i just bought the cannon won't work , motor is working but no real power , I got the cannon assembly off taking the circlips off the plastic joining bar and the motor out but can't get the grub screw out to put a new motor in if I get one.

ON the new motor point anyone bought one recently they are around $80-$90 but don't want to waste that if they are still not very good.

Mel

On 2023/06/10 10:24 a.m., Jonathan Melleney wrote:
> On Tuesday, 6 June 2023 at 20:17:21 UTC+1, Jonathan Melleney wrote:
>> On Saturday, 28 July 2012 at 05:37:49 UTC+1, kbliznick wrote:
>>>> I just LOVE waiting forever for a pin (after Stern makes a good one--took it up the ass on Avatar LE and TFLE), then waiting forever to play it because of QC issues.
>>> New motor in, lasted a handful of games (if that) then the new one
>>> stopped working as well. What a POS. What cheap chinese motor did
>>> they put in this thing. What happened to using Multi-products motors?
>>>
>>> The set screw on the connectors directly on the motor shaft was a
>>> nightmare. It was glued in with lock-tite and even applying heat did
>>> not loosen it up. I had to drill it out after it stripped. Luckily
>>> the linkage was pre-drilled for set screws on both sides so I was able
>>> to use a cap head screw in the other side. Would have been nice if
>>> they had sent the entire assembly. The entire assembly comes out in
>>> under 2 minutes by removing the 4 screws, 2 connectors and 1 set screw
>>> (without loctite) at the cannon side of the linkage. However I then
>>> had to spend another hour dicking with that glued in set screw to get
>>> the motor off of the assembly only for the new motor to instantly fail.
>
> @ Kbliznick How do you drill the grub screw out I have the same issue on a BIBLE i just bought the cannon won't work , motor is working but no real power , I got the cannon assembly off taking the circlips off the plastic joining bar and the motor out but can't get the grub screw out to put a new motor in if I get one.
>
> ON the new motor point anyone bought one recently they are around $80-$90 but don't want to waste that if they are still not very good.
>
> Mel

Before cutting, etc, have you tried using a new Hazet or other good
quality hex driver? The ball end style works very well I find...

The only way to get a grub screw out that is damaged is likely you have
to use a Dremel like tool to grind away at it and then replace the linkage.

I have seen people use the Dremel cutting disc to make a slot in the
hole down to the grub screw and make a slot on it so it can be removed
with a small slot screwdriver. That rarely works.

John :-#)#
--
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#7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
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"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

No knowledge of the set screw in question, but in general if loctite is involved I would try to heat the fastener first, maybe with soldering iron, then try to use hex wrench. If you must drill, they make reverse drill bits so that if they bite, they often unscrew the fastener. Last resort is the screw extractor, but if you break off one of these hardened tools you are really in deep. Good luck!