1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.

There is what I am going to use for the rail and stiles of the door and
drawer fronts for our kitchen redo.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/

100 linear feet of 1x8 s4s walnut with 2, 1/8" wide white oak pinstripes
inlaid.

I have the jig that sets the width of the thin rip to the left side of
the blade, the kind that you readjust the rip fence with every pass and
hope for a consistent result.

There are numerous jigs out there but I also need to cut this strips up
to 42" long.

So this guy has come up with an elegant solution that puts the thin
strip between the fixed object on the right side of the blade. So no
moving the fence with every pass. This method is not unique but with
90% of these type jigs you are kinda limited to short strips. The jig
in the video seems to have all the bases covered regardless of how thing
the strips need to be and the fence never moves. And he does this on a
tiny Shop Smith TS.

This is the best jig I have seen for this purpose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9Rt3IkcW08&t=24s

Now a question, I will be cutting approximately 72, 8' long thin strips
1/8" wide.

This is what I am going for.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/

Band Saw or TS? I will for certain cut the 1/8" x 3/4" strips down to
3, 3/16" tall pieces on the BS.

Wood Glue? or Super Glue?

Thoughts?

On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 3:20:35 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> 1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.
>
> There is what I am going to use for the rail and stiles of the door and
> drawer fronts for our kitchen redo.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
>
> 100 linear feet of 1x8 s4s walnut with 2, 1/8" wide white oak pinstripes
> inlaid.
>
>
> I have the jig that sets the width of the thin rip to the left side of
> the blade, the kind that you readjust the rip fence with every pass and
> hope for a consistent result.
>
> There are numerous jigs out there but I also need to cut this strips up
> to 42" long.
>
> So this guy has come up with an elegant solution that puts the thin
> strip between the fixed object on the right side of the blade. So no
> moving the fence with every pass. This method is not unique but with
> 90% of these type jigs you are kinda limited to short strips. The jig
> in the video seems to have all the bases covered regardless of how thing
> the strips need to be and the fence never moves. And he does this on a
> tiny Shop Smith TS.
>
> This is the best jig I have seen for this purpose.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9Rt3IkcW08&t=24s
>
> Now a question, I will be cutting approximately 72, 8' long thin strips
> 1/8" wide.
>
> This is what I am going for.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
>
> Band Saw or TS? I will for certain cut the 1/8" x 3/4" strips down to
> 3, 3/16" tall pieces on the BS.
>
> Wood Glue? or Super Glue?
>
> Thoughts?

If the longest strips you need are 42”, why do you say you need
to cut 8’ strips?

I like the jig in the video although the flipping of the stop, the
resetting of the jig after each cut, etc. looks a little clumsy. I
guess if you get rhythm going, it might not be so bad.

Have you considered a Grr-Ripper (or 2) with the 1/8” leg? Certainly
not as inexpensive as that homemade jig, but it should get the job
done without the “resetting” after each pass. Plus, after you’re
done, you’ll have a Grr-Ripper (or 2) ;-)

https://youtu.be/v_RdyX2rd40

Unrelated (sort of) but I’m curious about his comment about the use
of the riving knife. Is a 1/4” strip on the inside of the blade really going
to cause kickback if the board “closes up”? Somehow it just doesn’t
seem like the pressure would be enough.

On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 2:20:35 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> 1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.
>
> There is what I am going to use for the rail and stiles of the door and
> drawer fronts for our kitchen redo.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
>
> 100 linear feet of 1x8 s4s walnut with 2, 1/8" wide white oak pinstripes
> inlaid.
>
>
> I have the jig that sets the width of the thin rip to the left side of
> the blade, the kind that you readjust the rip fence with every pass and
> hope for a consistent result.
>
> There are numerous jigs out there but I also need to cut this strips up
> to 42" long.
>
> So this guy has come up with an elegant solution that puts the thin
> strip between the fixed object on the right side of the blade. So no
> moving the fence with every pass. This method is not unique but with
> 90% of these type jigs you are kinda limited to short strips. The jig
> in the video seems to have all the bases covered regardless of how thing
> the strips need to be and the fence never moves. And he does this on a
> tiny Shop Smith TS.
>
> This is the best jig I have seen for this purpose.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9Rt3IkcW08&t=24s
>
> Now a question, I will be cutting approximately 72, 8' long thin strips
> 1/8" wide.
>
> This is what I am going for.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
>
> Band Saw or TS? I will for certain cut the 1/8" x 3/4" strips down to
> 3, 3/16" tall pieces on the BS.
>
> Wood Glue? or Super Glue?
>
> Thoughts?
What about resawing a board to about 1/4" thick, then running through the planer to get 1/8" thick. Then its a matter of cutting strips out of the thin board on the table saw. I can do it on my planer. I am not sure about your combo jointer/planer.

On 4/10/2023 5:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 3:20:35 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> 1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.
>>
>> There is what I am going to use for the rail and stiles of the door and
>> drawer fronts for our kitchen redo.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
>>
>> 100 linear feet of 1x8 s4s walnut with 2, 1/8" wide white oak pinstripes
>> inlaid.
>>
>>
>> I have the jig that sets the width of the thin rip to the left side of
>> the blade, the kind that you readjust the rip fence with every pass and
>> hope for a consistent result.
>>
>> There are numerous jigs out there but I also need to cut this strips up
>> to 42" long.
>>
>> So this guy has come up with an elegant solution that puts the thin
>> strip between the fixed object on the right side of the blade. So no
>> moving the fence with every pass. This method is not unique but with
>> 90% of these type jigs you are kinda limited to short strips. The jig
>> in the video seems to have all the bases covered regardless of how thing
>> the strips need to be and the fence never moves. And he does this on a
>> tiny Shop Smith TS.
>>
>> This is the best jig I have seen for this purpose.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9Rt3IkcW08&t=24s
>>
>> Now a question, I will be cutting approximately 72, 8' long thin strips
>> 1/8" wide.
>>
>> This is what I am going for.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
>>
>> Band Saw or TS? I will for certain cut the 1/8" x 3/4" strips down to
>> 3, 3/16" tall pieces on the BS.
>>
>> Wood Glue? or Super Glue?
>>
>> Thoughts?
>
> If the longest strips you need are 42”, why do you say you need
> to cut 8’ strips?

I have 158 pieces that need to receive 2 pinstripe pieces. The longer
the pinstripe piece the more pieces I can get our of an 8' pieces vs. 2,
4' pieces. Some pieces are less than 4" long.

I may rethink that.

The plan is to work with 2'~5' pieces and glue them in place and then
cut to length. I need to over size the cuts on the walnut so that the
pinstripes stick out each end. I don't want to have to cut the
pinstripes to exact length before gluing them in.

>
> I like the jig in the video although the flipping of the stop, the
> resetting of the jig after each cut, etc. looks a little clumsy. I
> guess if you get rhythm going, it might not be so bad.

I think better than repositioning the rip fence every time.

>
> Have you considered a Grr-Ripper (or 2) with the 1/8” leg? Certainly
> not as inexpensive as that homemade jig, but it should get the job
> done without the “resetting” after each pass. Plus, after you’re
> done, you’ll have a Grr-Ripper (or 2) ;-)

Yes I have 2 and for many many years, but they do not insure that the
thin pieces will not get battered by the blade, the fence not letting
the piece be free. With the jig there is room for the strip to be in
open space after being cut until the very end of the cut and not
possibly being scorched by the blade. The gripper is good but I have
had issues with them when needing to do thin material. I need to cut a
bunch.
Resetting is simply a matter of pulling the jig back, similar to pulling
a miter gauge back after each cut and then flipping the arm back down.
This jig actually feeds the work through with a solid stop when you get
to the end, most other jigs do not.

>
> https://youtu.be/v_RdyX2rd40
>
> Unrelated (sort of) but I’m curious about his comment about the use
> of the riving knife. Is a 1/4” strip on the inside of the blade really going
> to cause kickback if the board “closes up”? Somehow it just doesn’t
> seem like the pressure would be enough.

Yeah I missed that part.

Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
>On 4/10/2023 5:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 3:20:35 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>>> 1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.

The stringing is 1/8 wide, and 1/4" deep, then?

I'd start with 1x8 white oak (although I think a less coarse grain
would be easier to work, e.g. maple or cherry both of which contrast
well with walnut). Joint one face, resaw a 3/16" slabs, then
with a drum sander, sand the resawn (non jointed) face to 1/8".

Then build a jig with a GEM blade (at an angle) and a fence, where the blade
is 1/4" from the fence and pull the 1/8" x 8" finished slabs
through the jig to slice off 1/4" x 1/8" strips.

On 4/10/2023 5:42 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
> On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 2:20:35 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>> 1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.
>>
>> There is what I am going to use for the rail and stiles of the door and
>> drawer fronts for our kitchen redo.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
>>
>> 100 linear feet of 1x8 s4s walnut with 2, 1/8" wide white oak pinstripes
>> inlaid.
>>
>>
>> I have the jig that sets the width of the thin rip to the left side of
>> the blade, the kind that you readjust the rip fence with every pass and
>> hope for a consistent result.
>>
>> There are numerous jigs out there but I also need to cut this strips up
>> to 42" long.
>>
>> So this guy has come up with an elegant solution that puts the thin
>> strip between the fixed object on the right side of the blade. So no
>> moving the fence with every pass. This method is not unique but with
>> 90% of these type jigs you are kinda limited to short strips. The jig
>> in the video seems to have all the bases covered regardless of how thing
>> the strips need to be and the fence never moves. And he does this on a
>> tiny Shop Smith TS.
>>
>> This is the best jig I have seen for this purpose.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9Rt3IkcW08&t=24s
>>
>> Now a question, I will be cutting approximately 72, 8' long thin strips
>> 1/8" wide.
>>
>> This is what I am going for.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
>>
>> Band Saw or TS? I will for certain cut the 1/8" x 3/4" strips down to
>> 3, 3/16" tall pieces on the BS.
>>
>> Wood Glue? or Super Glue?
>>
>> Thoughts?
> What about resawing a board to about 1/4" thick, then running through the planer to get 1/8" thick. Then its a matter of cutting strips out of the thin board on the table saw. I can do it on my planer. I am not sure about your combo jointer/planer.

If the oak I get is perfectly flat and straight that could work. BUT I
would rather not be resawing 7.25" wide material.

Now the walnut.

BUT I am considering cutting each walnut piece 1/8" wider than needed in
case the piece bows a bit after being cut. With my Cut List program I
was able to get pieces that are aligned so that I can cross cut to
shorten the rips and lessen the chance of ending up with a narrower
piece, should the wood be case hardened and creep away from the fence.
THEN assuming all comes out well run the pieces through the planer to
get to the final width of 2.125" The rails and stiles are all that
width, 152 pieces. 6 pieces, mid stiles, are 3" wide.

Back to the oak pinstripes, I think it would be hard to resaw a 3/4" 1x8
in to 3 pieces. You said 2 pieces but I think I can easily get 3 final
pieces/strips if starting out with 1/8" x 3/4" strips to begin with and
probably cutting 3 pieces from that on the band saw. That would be a
safer cut. I'm just wondering if I can use the above mentioned jig on
my BS to create the 1/8"x3/4" strips too.

Lots to think about! Especially adding the pinstripes in as few pieces
possible. I think it will be faster if I can pinstripe a longer piece
that will end up being cut to 2~4 pieces.

Thoughts on glue? Super glue or wood glue?

I wonder how many bottles of super glue it would take. I have to glue
approximately 200 liner feet of pin striping. The super glue usually
has a decent pin point application top. I may need a Glue-bot for
regular wood glue.

Super glue would cure much faster even with out accelerator, I would
have to clamp for probably at least 20~30 minutes with wood glue. This
is going to take "days" just to get to the point of cutting each rail
and stile to length. Kim is right beside me so 2 more hands come in handy.

All of the cabinets and drawers are built and fitted. All cabinets are
anchored in their final resting places and we primed and painted over
the weekend. We had our first counter top guy come out today to take
measurements. We will have 4 separate counter tops. We plan on getting
at least one more bid. Some of these places want to charge to come
measure to give a firm price. Those get crossed off of my list.

On 4/10/2023 6:21 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
>> On 4/10/2023 5:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 3:20:35 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>>>> 1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.
>
> The stringing is 1/8 wide, and 1/4" deep, then?

1/8" wide and about 1/8" deep. Cutting a bit taller to make handling
easier and to have something to sand off to the surface of the walnut.

>
> I'd start with 1x8 white oak (although I think a less coarse grain
> would be easier to work, e.g. maple or cherry both of which contrast
> well with walnut). Joint one face, resaw a 3/16" slabs, then
> with a drum sander, sand the resawn (non jointed) face to 1/8".

Agreed BUT white oak is better than red oak. I have build quite a bit
with cherry and over 1~2 years it has darkened considerably in our home.
That is great but the contrast would likely lessen over time against
the walnut. Maple too would be a good contrast but I hate working with
maple. Most of the maple down here does not stay straight after being
cut. I used it many years ago on a kitchen job and it was always a crap
shoot as to whether the piece bowed or not. Same thing on this
kitchen, I used maple for the face frames. Some stiles needed a lot of
sanding after the cut because they pushed away from the fence as they
were cut. With these tiny pieces I would be afraid of them not coming
out precisely the width of the grove that they will fit in to.

>
> Then build a jig with a GEM blade (at an angle) and a fence, where the blade
> is 1/4" from the fence and pull the 1/8" x 8" finished slabs
> through the jig to slice off 1/4" x 1/8" strips.
>
>

On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 7:08:05 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 4/10/2023 5:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 3:20:35 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> >> 1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.
> >>
> >> There is what I am going to use for the rail and stiles of the door and
> >> drawer fronts for our kitchen redo.
> >>
> >> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
> >>
> >> 100 linear feet of 1x8 s4s walnut with 2, 1/8" wide white oak pinstripes
> >> inlaid.
> >>
> >>
> >> I have the jig that sets the width of the thin rip to the left side of
> >> the blade, the kind that you readjust the rip fence with every pass and
> >> hope for a consistent result.
> >>
> >> There are numerous jigs out there but I also need to cut this strips up
> >> to 42" long.
> >>
> >> So this guy has come up with an elegant solution that puts the thin
> >> strip between the fixed object on the right side of the blade. So no
> >> moving the fence with every pass. This method is not unique but with
> >> 90% of these type jigs you are kinda limited to short strips. The jig
> >> in the video seems to have all the bases covered regardless of how thing
> >> the strips need to be and the fence never moves. And he does this on a
> >> tiny Shop Smith TS.
> >>
> >> This is the best jig I have seen for this purpose.
> >>
> >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9Rt3IkcW08&t=24s
> >>
> >> Now a question, I will be cutting approximately 72, 8' long thin strips
> >> 1/8" wide.
> >>
> >> This is what I am going for.
> >>
> >> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
> >>
> >> Band Saw or TS? I will for certain cut the 1/8" x 3/4" strips down to
> >> 3, 3/16" tall pieces on the BS.
> >>
> >> Wood Glue? or Super Glue?
> >>
> >> Thoughts?
> >
> > If the longest strips you need are 42”, why do you say you need
> > to cut 8’ strips?
> I have 158 pieces that need to receive 2 pinstripe pieces. The longer
> the pinstripe piece the more pieces I can get our of an 8' pieces vs. 2,
> 4' pieces. Some pieces are less than 4" long.
>
> I may rethink that.
>
> The plan is to work with 2'~5' pieces and glue them in place and then
> cut to length. I need to over size the cuts on the walnut so that the
> pinstripes stick out each end. I don't want to have to cut the
> pinstripes to exact length before gluing them in.
> >
> > I like the jig in the video although the flipping of the stop, the
> > resetting of the jig after each cut, etc. looks a little clumsy. I
> > guess if you get rhythm going, it might not be so bad.
> I think better than repositioning the rip fence every time.

No argument there.

> >
> > Have you considered a Grr-Ripper (or 2) with the 1/8” leg? Certainly
> > not as inexpensive as that homemade jig, but it should get the job
> > done without the “resetting” after each pass. Plus, after you’re
> > done, you’ll have a Grr-Ripper (or 2) ;-)
> Yes I have 2 and for many many years, but they do not insure that the
> thin pieces will not get battered by the blade, the fence not letting
> the piece be free. With the jig there is room for the strip to be in
> open space after being cut until the very end of the cut and not
> possibly being scorched by the blade. The gripper is good but I have
> had issues with them when needing to do thin material. I need to cut a
> bunch.
> Resetting is simply a matter of pulling the jig back, similar to pulling
> a miter gauge back after each cut and then flipping the arm back down.

That's not how he resets it. Maybe it's because of his guard, but he lifts
it off the table almost every time. Look at the video in the background
here. There's only one time he pulls it back and then the next time he
lifts it again.

https://youtu.be/U9Rt3IkcW08?t=413

Without a guard, yes, pulling it back would be easier. I don't know if
you use a guard or if your guard allows it to be pulled back. The guard
on my 70's vintage Craftsman has kickback pawls that would have to
be defeated but the jig would still hit the guard itself. Not that I actually
use my guard, but he claims that one of the advantages of his jig is
that it can be used with the guard. With all of the cuts you will be making,
lifting that jig every time would be brutal

> This jig actually feeds the work through with a solid stop when you get
> to the end, most other jigs do not.

Yep...saw that. That is a good feature.

Assuming that it can actually be pulled back after each cut, I wonder if
modifying it to be an over-the-fence jig would make it even better. Then
you wouldn't even have to think about feeding it straight along the fence.
It would do that on its own.

> >
> > https://youtu.be/v_RdyX2rd40
> >
> > Unrelated (sort of) but I’m curious about his comment about the use
> > of the riving knife. Is a 1/4” strip on the inside of the blade really going
> > to cause kickback if the board “closes up”? Somehow it just doesn’t
> > seem like the pressure would be enough.
> Yeah I missed that part.

Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
>On 4/10/2023 6:21 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
>>> On 4/10/2023 5:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>> On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 3:20:35 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>>>>> 1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.
>>
>> The stringing is 1/8 wide, and 1/4" deep, then?
>
>1/8" wide and about 1/8" deep. Cutting a bit taller to make handling
>easier and to have something to sand off to the surface of the walnut.
>
>
>>
>> I'd start with 1x8 white oak (although I think a less coarse grain
>> would be easier to work, e.g. maple or cherry both of which contrast
>> well with walnut). Joint one face, resaw a 3/16" slabs, then
>> with a drum sander, sand the resawn (non jointed) face to 1/8".
>
>Agreed BUT white oak is better than red oak. I have build quite a bit
>with cherry and over 1~2 years it has darkened considerably in our home.

With the cherry, I'd use sapwood instead of heartwood; the sapwood
stays pale and doesn't age like the heartwood.

> That is great but the contrast would likely lessen over time against
>the walnut. Maple too would be a good contrast but I hate working with
>maple. Most of the maple down here does not stay straight after being

Have you tested the moisture content? I get pretty good stuff
(or have in the past anyway) out here in california, it all
comes from east of the mississippi, I had stored the
8/4 stuff that I used for my workbench for several years before
cutting it, allowing it to acclimate.

On 4/10/2023 8:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Snip
>>>
>>> Have you considered a Grr-Ripper (or 2) with the 1/8” leg? Certainly
>>> not as inexpensive as that homemade jig, but it should get the job
>>> done without the “resetting” after each pass. Plus, after you’re
>>> done, you’ll have a Grr-Ripper (or 2) ;-)
>> Yes I have 2 and for many many years, but they do not insure that the
>> thin pieces will not get battered by the blade, the fence not letting
>> the piece be free. With the jig there is room for the strip to be in
>> open space after being cut until the very end of the cut and not
>> possibly being scorched by the blade. The gripper is good but I have
>> had issues with them when needing to do thin material. I need to cut a
>> bunch.
>> Resetting is simply a matter of pulling the jig back, similar to pulling
>> a miter gauge back after each cut and then flipping the arm back down.
>
> That's not how he resets it. Maybe it's because of his guard, but he lifts
> it off the table almost every time. Look at the video in the background
> here. There's only one time he pulls it back and then the next time he
> lifts it again.

Yes, I don't use a guard, SS, Having to get repositioned around the
guard would be a pia. In my case, I would just slide it back into
position and lower the stop lever.

>
> https://youtu.be/U9Rt3IkcW08?t=413
>
> Without a guard, yes, pulling it back would be easier. I don't know if
> you use a guard or if your guard allows it to be pulled back. The guard
> on my 70's vintage Craftsman has kickback pawls that would have to
> be defeated but the jig would still hit the guard itself. Not that I actually
> use my guard, but he claims that one of the advantages of his jig is
> that it can be used with the guard. With all of the cuts you will be making,
> lifting that jig every time would be brutal

Agreed, see above.

>
>> This jig actually feeds the work through with a solid stop when you get
>> to the end, most other jigs do not.
>
> Yep...saw that. That is a good feature.
>
> Assuming that it can actually be pulled back after each cut, I wonder if
> modifying it to be an over-the-fence jig would make it even better. Then
> you wouldn't even have to think about feeding it straight along the fence.
> It would do that on its own.

I have thought about having it cradle the fence so that it would not
move away from the fence, just move along the fence.

>
>>>
>>> https://youtu.be/v_RdyX2rd40
>>>
>>> Unrelated (sort of) but I’m curious about his comment about the use
>>> of the riving knife. Is a 1/4” strip on the inside of the blade really going
>>> to cause kickback if the board “closes up”? Somehow it just doesn’t
>>> seem like the pressure would be enough.
>> Yeah I missed that part.

Thinking on your question, it could kick back but not likely to be
violently since there is little mass. And it would more likely simply
lift up and float.

On 4/10/2023 9:00 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
>> On 4/10/2023 6:21 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
>>>> On 4/10/2023 5:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>> On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 3:20:35 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>>>>>> 1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.
>>>
>>> The stringing is 1/8 wide, and 1/4" deep, then?
>>
>> 1/8" wide and about 1/8" deep. Cutting a bit taller to make handling
>> easier and to have something to sand off to the surface of the walnut.
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I'd start with 1x8 white oak (although I think a less coarse grain
>>> would be easier to work, e.g. maple or cherry both of which contrast
>>> well with walnut). Joint one face, resaw a 3/16" slabs, then
>>> with a drum sander, sand the resawn (non jointed) face to 1/8".
>>
>> Agreed BUT white oak is better than red oak. I have build quite a bit
>> with cherry and over 1~2 years it has darkened considerably in our home.
>
> With the cherry, I'd use sapwood instead of heartwood; the sapwood
> stays pale and doesn't age like the heartwood.

Gotcha. But cherry is kind of a unique species down here. The sap wood
that I see is the thin slivers along the edge of a mostly heart wood board.

Oddly cherry is not a favored wood down here either. It is about the
least expensive wood that I have priced out. I do recall cherry being
a bit expensive 10~15 years ago. I bought several boards back then. And
IIRC today;s prices are the same as what I paid back then, $5~$6 per
linear foot 1x8 s4s. Less than 30% more than poplar.

>
>> That is great but the contrast would likely lessen over time against
>> the walnut. Maple too would be a good contrast but I hate working with
>> maple. Most of the maple down here does not stay straight after being
>
> Have you tested the moisture content? I get pretty good stuff
> (or have in the past anyway) out here in california, it all
> comes from east of the mississippi, I had stored the
> 8/4 stuff that I used for my workbench for several years before
> cutting it, allowing it to acclimate.

I do not check moisture content. I generally do not stock up with out
having a project in mind. But having said that I typically buy an
extra board for a job and a couple of days ago I was sorting my rack and
noticed that I apparently am stocking up. ;~) I have some really
interesting white oak boards that I have had for 15 plus years. All
rough sawn from a saw mill.

On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 10:07:10 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 4/10/2023 8:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> Snip
> >>>
> >>> Have you considered a Grr-Ripper (or 2) with the 1/8” leg? Certainly
> >>> not as inexpensive as that homemade jig, but it should get the job
> >>> done without the “resetting” after each pass. Plus, after you’re
> >>> done, you’ll have a Grr-Ripper (or 2) ;-)
> >> Yes I have 2 and for many many years, but they do not insure that the
> >> thin pieces will not get battered by the blade, the fence not letting
> >> the piece be free. With the jig there is room for the strip to be in
> >> open space after being cut until the very end of the cut and not
> >> possibly being scorched by the blade. The gripper is good but I have
> >> had issues with them when needing to do thin material. I need to cut a
> >> bunch.
> >> Resetting is simply a matter of pulling the jig back, similar to pulling
> >> a miter gauge back after each cut and then flipping the arm back down.
> >
> > That's not how he resets it. Maybe it's because of his guard, but he lifts
> > it off the table almost every time. Look at the video in the background
> > here. There's only one time he pulls it back and then the next time he
> > lifts it again.
> Yes, I don't use a guard, SS, Having to get repositioned around the
> guard would be a pia. In my case, I would just slide it back into
> position and lower the stop lever.
> >
> > https://youtu.be/U9Rt3IkcW08?t=413
> >
> > Without a guard, yes, pulling it back would be easier. I don't know if
> > you use a guard or if your guard allows it to be pulled back. The guard
> > on my 70's vintage Craftsman has kickback pawls that would have to
> > be defeated but the jig would still hit the guard itself. Not that I actually
> > use my guard, but he claims that one of the advantages of his jig is
> > that it can be used with the guard. With all of the cuts you will be making,
> > lifting that jig every time would be brutal
> Agreed, see above.
> >
> >> This jig actually feeds the work through with a solid stop when you get
> >> to the end, most other jigs do not.
> >
> > Yep...saw that. That is a good feature.
> >
> > Assuming that it can actually be pulled back after each cut, I wonder if
> > modifying it to be an over-the-fence jig would make it even better. Then
> > you wouldn't even have to think about feeding it straight along the fence.
> > It would do that on its own.
> I have thought about having it cradle the fence so that it would not
> move away from the fence, just move along the fence.
> >
> >>>
> >>> https://youtu.be/v_RdyX2rd40
> >>>
> >>> Unrelated (sort of) but I’m curious about his comment about the use
> >>> of the riving knife. Is a 1/4” strip on the inside of the blade really going
> >>> to cause kickback if the board “closes up”? Somehow it just doesn’t
> >>> seem like the pressure would be enough.
> >> Yeah I missed that part.
> Thinking on your question, it could kick back but not likely to be
> violently since there is little mass. And it would more likely simply
> lift up and float.

Lifting and floating was also what I was picturing. I haven’t
look at it too deeply, but it crossed my mind that it might make
sense to make that flip arm not just be a pusher, but also a
hold down like most push sticks are.

On 4/11/2023 4:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Snip
>>>>>
>>>>> Unrelated (sort of) but I’m curious about his comment about the use
>>>>> of the riving knife. Is a 1/4” strip on the inside of the blade really going
>>>>> to cause kickback if the board “closes up”? Somehow it just doesn’t
>>>>> seem like the pressure would be enough.
>>>> Yeah I missed that part.
>> Thinking on your question, it could kick back but not likely to be
>> violently since there is little mass. And it would more likely simply
>> lift up and float.
>
> Lifting and floating was also what I was picturing. I haven’t
> look at it too deeply, but it crossed my mind that it might make
> sense to make that flip arm not just be a pusher, but also a
> hold down like most push sticks are.

Ok, So I built the jig and it took 3 minute adjustments to get this to
fit the way I wonted it to fit.

These are approximately 1/8" deep and the on nearest the middle was with
a different blade, one that cuts flat bottoms.

There was no tendency for the thin strip to come up, it was still
attached to the board that it was being cut from and then past the blade
I had to look closely to realize that the strip was still against the
jig, it did not fall away. And both pieces were similar in color. So
this was very stable wood. I'm happy with the results and will rip the
strips into thirds, with my band saw to get 3 strips from each 1/8" x
3/4" strip. And hopefully yield 3, 3/16" tall pinstripes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52810457126/in/datetaken/

On Tuesday, April 11, 2023 at 5:27:27 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 4/11/2023 4:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
>
> Snip
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Unrelated (sort of) but I’m curious about his comment about the use
> >>>>> of the riving knife. Is a 1/4” strip on the inside of the blade really going
> >>>>> to cause kickback if the board “closes up”? Somehow it just doesn’t
> >>>>> seem like the pressure would be enough.
> >>>> Yeah I missed that part.
> >> Thinking on your question, it could kick back but not likely to be
> >> violently since there is little mass. And it would more likely simply
> >> lift up and float.
> >
> > Lifting and floating was also what I was picturing. I haven’t
> > look at it too deeply, but it crossed my mind that it might make
> > sense to make that flip arm not just be a pusher, but also a
> > hold down like most push sticks are.
> Ok, So I built the jig and it took 3 minute adjustments to get this to
> fit the way I wonted it to fit.
>
> These are approximately 1/8" deep and the on nearest the middle was with
> a different blade, one that cuts flat bottoms.
>
> There was no tendency for the thin strip to come up, it was still
> attached to the board that it was being cut from and then past the blade
> I had to look closely to realize that the strip was still against the
> jig, it did not fall away. And both pieces were similar in color. So
> this was very stable wood. I'm happy with the results and will rip the
> strips into thirds, with my band saw to get 3 strips from each 1/8" x
> 3/4" strip. And hopefully yield 3, 3/16" tall pinstripes.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52810457126/in/datetaken/

Nice find. I saved the link. I’m sure it’ll come in handy..

Good luck with this next phase.