I have, since film days, often run a regular EV of -1/3 or -2/3 stop, on
the theory that I find burnt-out highlights more objectionable than
darkened shadow details.

These days with modern sensors is there really any reason to do that on
anything other than challenging contrast or specific lighting conditions ?

geoff

On 25/08/2023 04:14, geoff wrote:
> I have, since film days, often run a regular EV of -1/3 or -2/3 stop, on
> the theory that I find burnt-out highlights more objectionable than
> darkened shadow details.
>
> These days with modern sensors is there really any reason to do that on
> anything other than challenging contrast or specific lighting conditions ?
>
> geoff

Yes, if you rely on the in-camera JPEG images rather than RAW.
Some cameras have (optional) built-in HDR which can help.
--
Cheers,
David
Web: https://www.satsignal.eu

In article <O3OdnWl-M5IcgXX5nZ2dnZfqnPSdnZ2d@giganews.com>, geoff
<geoff@nospamgeoffwood.org> wrote:

> I have, since film days, often run a regular EV of -1/3 or -2/3 stop, on
> the theory that I find burnt-out highlights more objectionable than
> darkened shadow details.
>
> These days with modern sensors is there really any reason to do that on
> anything other than challenging contrast or specific lighting conditions ?

not really, other than extreme conditions. modern cameras have a wider
dynamic range than film and much better metering systems, so the need
to do that is rare.

In article <uc9br4$3s7l7$1@dont-email.me>, David Taylor
<david-taylor@blueyonder.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

> > I have, since film days, often run a regular EV of -1/3 or -2/3 stop, on
> > the theory that I find burnt-out highlights more objectionable than
> > darkened shadow details.
> >
> > These days with modern sensors is there really any reason to do that on
> > anything other than challenging contrast or specific lighting conditions ?
> >
>
> Yes, if you rely on the in-camera JPEG images rather than RAW.

irrelevant.

> Some cameras have (optional) built-in HDR which can help.

that's completely different.

On 2023-08-24 23:14, geoff wrote:
> I have, since film days, often run a regular EV of -1/3 or -2/3 stop, on
> the theory that I find burnt-out highlights more objectionable than
> darkened shadow details.

Rather than EV reference better refer to the highlight as the reference
(below).

> These days with modern sensors is there really any reason to do that on
> anything other than challenging contrast or specific lighting conditions ?

When digital sensors first came out it was typical to treat them similar
to slide film and so set the exposure for highlights at about +2.333 to
as much as +2.5. Use your camera spot meter to get the highlight value
- then open up from there (aperture, speed, ISO as needed).
(Alternately lock the exposure at the highlight and expose slower than
that (on my camera I would hold the AEL button) by the offset).

As digital sensors have improved that has gone maybe 1 stop (more?)
further while also exposing deeper in the shadows. So if you set your
exposure in the highlight to be +3 or so you should be good (with later
sensors).

Your camera manual might even have guidance for this.

Experiment and find out. Much cheaper to run tests with digital than film.

--
“If you torture the data long enough, it will confess to anything."
-Ronald Coase