I am making a fuel tank for a reproduction Briggs and Stratton Motor
wheel. I intend to use 2 1 lb Coleman propane bottles, with the
bottoms cut off, tig welded together with a steel filler neck also tig
welded in. My problem is keeping the inside of the tank from rusting
and I came up with an idea - don't know how feezible it is.
I am thinking of putting some Oakley 95 tinning flux in the tank
after sandblasting it, and before finishing the weld then heating the
welded tank to about 700F and rotating it while maintaining heat to
totally flow the tinning flux over the entire surface. After cutting
out the opening in the filler neck I would tin the inside ofthe filler
then flush out any remaining flux - leaving the entire interior of the
tank tinned and protected from rust - basically like a terne coating.
1.7 oz of tinning paste is $12.99 mini CanaBucks
Can't think of a simpler lower cost source for a half gallon
cylindrical duel tank - although this isn't exactly a SIMPLE one. I
made a "prototype" brazing the tanks together and attempting first to
braze, then to solder a red brass /copper fitting in for a filler. Not
a neet job and not a liquid tight seel between the tank and filler -
and a LOT of rust in the tank 3 months later.

What am I missing???? any obvious "gottchas"? ( I WILL braze "bosses"
on the outside of the tank to drill and tap for the fuel fittings, and
braze or tig on the mounting brackets before doing the tinning so no
heating will be required after the tinning process )- then just a good
cleanup and paint with gasoline-proof paint. I learned years ago NOT
to use spray Tremclad on fuel tanks - - - -

"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
news:kumrjihq1c41jpv1cabm39mlopg1n3ml7d@4ax.com...

I am making a fuel tank for a reproduction Briggs and Stratton Motor
wheel. I intend to use 2 1 lb Coleman propane bottles, with the
bottoms cut off, tig welded together with a steel filler neck also tig
welded in. My problem is keeping the inside of the tank from rusting
and I came up with an idea - don't know how feezible it is.
I am thinking of putting some Oakley 95 tinning flux in the tank
after sandblasting it, and before finishing the weld then heating the
welded tank to about 700F and rotating it while maintaining heat to
totally flow the tinning flux over the entire surface. After cutting
out the opening in the filler neck I would tin the inside ofthe filler
then flush out any remaining flux - leaving the entire interior of the
tank tinned and protected from rust - basically like a terne coating.
1.7 oz of tinning paste is $12.99 mini CanaBucks
Can't think of a simpler lower cost source for a half gallon
cylindrical duel tank - although this isn't exactly a SIMPLE one. I
made a "prototype" brazing the tanks together and attempting first to
braze, then to solder a red brass /copper fitting in for a filler. Not
a neet job and not a liquid tight seel between the tank and filler -
and a LOT of rust in the tank 3 months later.

What am I missing???? any obvious "gottchas"? ( I WILL braze "bosses"
on the outside of the tank to drill and tap for the fuel fittings, and
braze or tig on the mounting brackets before doing the tinning so no
heating will be required after the tinning process )- then just a good
cleanup and paint with gasoline-proof paint. I learned years ago NOT
to use spray Tremclad on fuel tanks - - - -

--------------------------------

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5530

Argon or CO2 in the tank might minimize oxidation of the hot areas before
they are covered.

A small stainless steel gas tank:
https://tinyurl.com/bddvbzs2

On Sun, 29 Oct 2023 06:55:13 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

>"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
>news:kumrjihq1c41jpv1cabm39mlopg1n3ml7d@4ax.com...
>
>I am making a fuel tank for a reproduction Briggs and Stratton Motor
>wheel. I intend to use 2 1 lb Coleman propane bottles, with the
>bottoms cut off, tig welded together with a steel filler neck also tig
>welded in. My problem is keeping the inside of the tank from rusting
>and I came up with an idea - don't know how feezible it is.
>I am thinking of putting some Oakley 95 tinning flux in the tank
>after sandblasting it, and before finishing the weld then heating the
>welded tank to about 700F and rotating it while maintaining heat to
>totally flow the tinning flux over the entire surface. After cutting
>out the opening in the filler neck I would tin the inside ofthe filler
>then flush out any remaining flux - leaving the entire interior of the
>tank tinned and protected from rust - basically like a terne coating.
>1.7 oz of tinning paste is $12.99 mini CanaBucks
>Can't think of a simpler lower cost source for a half gallon
>cylindrical duel tank - although this isn't exactly a SIMPLE one. I
>made a "prototype" brazing the tanks together and attempting first to
>braze, then to solder a red brass /copper fitting in for a filler. Not
>a neet job and not a liquid tight seel between the tank and filler -
>and a LOT of rust in the tank 3 months later.
>
>What am I missing???? any obvious "gottchas"? ( I WILL braze "bosses"
>on the outside of the tank to drill and tap for the fuel fittings, and
>braze or tig on the mounting brackets before doing the tinning so no
>heating will be required after the tinning process )- then just a good
>cleanup and paint with gasoline-proof paint. I learned years ago NOT
>to use spray Tremclad on fuel tanks - - - -
>
>--------------------------------
>
>https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5530
>
>Argon or CO2 in the tank might minimize oxidation of the hot areas before
>they are covered.
>
>A small stainless steel gas tank:
>https://tinyurl.com/bddvbzs2
>

Clare probably knows this already but just in case...

POR has been the product used by gas tank builders and restorations in
stuff I've read through the years...

https://www.amazon.com/PPOR-15-Corrosion-Resistant-Alcohols-Additives/dp/B00B3HXCZ4/

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On 10/28/2023 11:33 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> I am making a fuel tank for a reproduction Briggs and Stratton Motor
> wheel. I intend to use 2 1 lb Coleman propane bottles, with the
> bottoms cut off, tig welded together with a steel filler neck also tig
> welded in. My problem is keeping the inside of the tank from rusting
> and I came up with an idea - don't know how feezible it is.
> I am thinking of putting some Oakley 95 tinning flux in the tank
> after sandblasting it, and before finishing the weld then heating the
> welded tank to about 700F and rotating it while maintaining heat to
> totally flow the tinning flux over the entire surface. After cutting
> out the opening in the filler neck I would tin the inside ofthe filler
> then flush out any remaining flux - leaving the entire interior of the
> tank tinned and protected from rust - basically like a terne coating.
> 1.7 oz of tinning paste is $12.99 mini CanaBucks
> Can't think of a simpler lower cost source for a half gallon
> cylindrical duel tank - although this isn't exactly a SIMPLE one. I
> made a "prototype" brazing the tanks together and attempting first to
> braze, then to solder a red brass /copper fitting in for a filler. Not
> a neet job and not a liquid tight seel between the tank and filler -
> and a LOT of rust in the tank 3 months later.
>
> What am I missing???? any obvious "gottchas"? ( I WILL braze "bosses"
> on the outside of the tank to drill and tap for the fuel fittings, and
> braze or tig on the mounting brackets before doing the tinning so no
> heating will be required after the tinning process )- then just a good
> cleanup and paint with gasoline-proof paint. I learned years ago NOT
> to use spray Tremclad on fuel tanks - - - -
>

Why not use aluminum ? easier to form and since you have TIG
capabilities ... I found that discarded late model GM truck aluminum
drive lines are just the right diameter for quite a few small projects ,
I'm using a section to build a ball mill for making black powder for
pyrotechnic projects .
--
Snag
Men don't protect women because they're weak .
We protect them because they're important .

On Sun, 29 Oct 2023 08:07:10 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

>On 10/28/2023 11:33 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>> I am making a fuel tank for a reproduction Briggs and Stratton Motor
>> wheel. I intend to use 2 1 lb Coleman propane bottles, with the
>> bottoms cut off, tig welded together with a steel filler neck also tig
>> welded in. My problem is keeping the inside of the tank from rusting
>> and I came up with an idea - don't know how feezible it is.
>> I am thinking of putting some Oakley 95 tinning flux in the tank
>> after sandblasting it, and before finishing the weld then heating the
>> welded tank to about 700F and rotating it while maintaining heat to
>> totally flow the tinning flux over the entire surface. After cutting
>> out the opening in the filler neck I would tin the inside ofthe filler
>> then flush out any remaining flux - leaving the entire interior of the
>> tank tinned and protected from rust - basically like a terne coating.
>> 1.7 oz of tinning paste is $12.99 mini CanaBucks
>> Can't think of a simpler lower cost source for a half gallon
>> cylindrical duel tank - although this isn't exactly a SIMPLE one. I
>> made a "prototype" brazing the tanks together and attempting first to
>> braze, then to solder a red brass /copper fitting in for a filler. Not
>> a neet job and not a liquid tight seel between the tank and filler -
>> and a LOT of rust in the tank 3 months later.
>>
>> What am I missing???? any obvious "gottchas"? ( I WILL braze "bosses"
>> on the outside of the tank to drill and tap for the fuel fittings, and
>> braze or tig on the mounting brackets before doing the tinning so no
>> heating will be required after the tinning process )- then just a good
>> cleanup and paint with gasoline-proof paint. I learned years ago NOT
>> to use spray Tremclad on fuel tanks - - - -
>>
>
> Why not use aluminum ? easier to form and since you have TIG
>capabilities ... I found that discarded late model GM truck aluminum
>drive lines are just the right diameter for quite a few small projects ,
>I'm using a section to build a ball mill for making black powder for
>pyrotechnic projects .

Aluminum is an option but the "domed" ends of the tank come ready
made on the propane tanks and I would need to come up with the proper
aluminum filler neck - not impossible - but I'd need to source a 1 1/2
inch aluminum pipe nipple and I've got the steel one all made
already - along with the brass cap and the mounting brackets for the 3
7/8 inch diameter tank along with the steel weld-on studs to mount it
to the brackets. In other words steel will be a WHOLE LOT simpler.

My experience with POR in the past was it did NOT like ethanol fuel.
Apparently it has been reformulated for stage II fuels?? I'd only need
about an ounce - - - so it's an option - but I like the idea of the
"tinned" tank - - -

On 10/28/2023 9:33 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> I am making a fuel tank for a reproduction Briggs and Stratton Motor
> wheel. I intend to use 2 1 lb Coleman propane bottles, with the
> bottoms cut off, tig welded together with a steel filler neck also tig
> welded in. My problem is keeping the inside of the tank from rusting
> and I came up with an idea - don't know how feezible it is.
> I am thinking of putting some Oakley 95 tinning flux in the tank
> after sandblasting it, and before finishing the weld then heating the
> welded tank to about 700F and rotating it while maintaining heat to
> totally flow the tinning flux over the entire surface. After cutting
> out the opening in the filler neck I would tin the inside ofthe filler
> then flush out any remaining flux - leaving the entire interior of the
> tank tinned and protected from rust - basically like a terne coating.
> 1.7 oz of tinning paste is $12.99 mini CanaBucks
> Can't think of a simpler lower cost source for a half gallon
> cylindrical duel tank - although this isn't exactly a SIMPLE one. I
> made a "prototype" brazing the tanks together and attempting first to
> braze, then to solder a red brass /copper fitting in for a filler. Not
> a neet job and not a liquid tight seel between the tank and filler -
> and a LOT of rust in the tank 3 months later.
>
> What am I missing???? any obvious "gottchas"? ( I WILL braze "bosses"
> on the outside of the tank to drill and tap for the fuel fittings, and
> braze or tig on the mounting brackets before doing the tinning so no
> heating will be required after the tinning process )- then just a good
> cleanup and paint with gasoline-proof paint. I learned years ago NOT
> to use spray Tremclad on fuel tanks - - - -

Will an old school motor cycle tank Kreem kit do the trick? I never
used one, but...

Like this
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313&_nkw=kreem+kit&_sacat=0

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
www.avg.com

On 10/29/2023 6:07 AM, Snag wrote:

>   Why not use aluminum ? easier to form and since you have TIG
> capabilities ... I found that discarded late model GM truck aluminum
> drive lines are just the right diameter for quite a few small projects ,
> I'm using a section to build a ball mill for making black powder for
> pyrotechnic projects .

No you got me wondering if I saved the drive line off the 2500 I
replaced or not...

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
www.avg.com

On 10/29/2023 5:23 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> On 10/28/2023 9:33 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>> I am making a fuel tank for a reproduction Briggs and Stratton Motor
>> wheel. I intend to use 2 1 lb Coleman propane bottles, with the
>> bottoms cut off, tig welded together with a steel filler neck also tig
>> welded in. My problem is keeping the inside of the tank from rusting
>> and I came up with an idea - don't know how feezible it is.
>>   I am thinking of putting some Oakley 95 tinning flux in the tank
>> after sandblasting it, and before finishing the weld then heating the
>> welded tank to about 700F and rotating it while maintaining heat to
>> totally flow the tinning flux over the entire surface. After cutting
>> out the opening in the filler neck I would tin the inside ofthe filler
>> then flush out any remaining flux - leaving the entire interior of the
>> tank tinned and protected  from rust - basically like a terne coating.
>>   1.7 oz of tinning paste is $12.99 mini CanaBucks
>>   Can't think of a simpler lower cost source for a half gallon
>> cylindrical duel tank - although this isn't exactly a SIMPLE one. I
>> made a "prototype" brazing the tanks together and attempting first to
>> braze, then to solder a red brass /copper fitting in for a filler. Not
>> a neet job and not a liquid tight seel between the tank and filler -
>> and a LOT of rust in the tank 3 months later.
>>
>> What am I missing???? any obvious "gottchas"? ( I WILL braze  "bosses"
>> on the outside of the tank to drill and tap for the fuel fittings, and
>> braze or tig on the mounting brackets before doing the tinning so no
>> heating will be required after the tinning process )- then just a good
>> cleanup and paint with gasoline-proof paint. I learned years ago NOT
>> to use spray Tremclad on fuel tanks - - - -
>
> Will an old school motor cycle tank Kreem kit do the trick?  I never
> used one, but...
>
> Like this
> https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313&_nkw=kreem+kit&_sacat=0
>

Oh, I missed the ethanol on my first quick read. According the the PNW
Riders, "It does not do well with ethanol (although they claimed they
changed the formula)."

https://www.pnwriders.com/threads/kreem-tank-liner-experience.151217/#:~:text=It%20does%20not%20do%20well%20with%20ethanol,%28although%20they%20claimed%20they%20changed%20the%20formula%29.

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
www.avg.com

On 10/29/2023 7:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> On 10/29/2023 6:07 AM, Snag wrote:
>
>>    Why not use aluminum ? easier to form and since you have TIG
>> capabilities ... I found that discarded late model GM truck aluminum
>> drive lines are just the right diameter for quite a few small projects
>> , I'm using a section to build a ball mill for making black powder for
>> pyrotechnic projects .
>
> No you got me wondering if I saved the drive line off the 2500 I
> replaced or not...
>

The thing is , you're pretty sure you did , just in case . You just
can't for the life of you remember where you put it . I've been there
.... way too often lately .
They say that your memory is the second thing to go . I'll be damned
if I can recall the first ...
--
Snag
Men don't protect women because they're weak .
We protect them because they're important .

On Saturday, October 28, 2023 at 9:33:38 PM UTC-7, Clare Snyder wrote:
> I am making a fuel tank for a reproduction Briggs and Stratton Motor
> wheel. I intend to use 2 1 lb Coleman propane bottles, with the
> bottoms cut off, tig welded together with a steel filler neck also tig
> welded in. My problem is keeping the inside of the tank from rusting
> and I came up with an idea - don't know how feezible it is.
> I am thinking of putting some Oakley 95 tinning flux in the tank
> after sandblasting it, and before finishing the weld then heating the
> welded tank to about 700F and rotating it while maintaining heat...

Sounds complicated.
Most ferrous metal fluxes for soft solder are acid, and can easily
etch crevices that will trap moisture and rust. After it's all together
there's not a lot of careful inspection of the solder coating possible.
Why not sandblast, flux and tin the halves. then clean well and...
use the same soft solder on a lapped seam to complete the closure,
without flux (because the pre tinned surfaces will wick in fresh solder nicely).

The tank isn't for high-vapor-pressure butane or propane, I trust?

On Sun Oct 29 19:29:34 2023 Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Sun, 29 Oct 2023 08:07:10 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>
> >On 10/28/2023 11:33 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> >> I am making a fuel tank for a reproduction Briggs and Stratton Motor
> >> wheel. I intend to use 2 1 lb Coleman propane bottles, with the
> >> bottoms cut off, tig welded together with a steel filler neck also tig
> >> welded in. My problem is keeping the inside of the tank from rusting
> >> and I came up with an idea - don't know how feezible it is.
> >> I am thinking of putting some Oakley 95 tinning flux in the tank
> >> after sandblasting it, and before finishing the weld then heating the
> >> welded tank to about 700F and rotating it while maintaining heat to
> >> totally flow the tinning flux over the entire surface. After cutting
> >> out the opening in the filler neck I would tin the inside ofthe filler
> >> then flush out any remaining flux - leaving the entire interior of the
> >> tank tinned and protected from rust - basically like a terne coating.
> >> 1.7 oz of tinning paste is $12.99 mini CanaBucks
> >> Can't think of a simpler lower cost source for a half gallon
> >> cylindrical duel tank - although this isn't exactly a SIMPLE one. I
> >> made a "prototype" brazing the tanks together and attempting first to
> >> braze, then to solder a red brass /copper fitting in for a filler. Not
> >> a neet job and not a liquid tight seel between the tank and filler -
> >> and a LOT of rust in the tank 3 months later.
> >>
> >> What am I missing???? any obvious "gottchas"? ( I WILL braze "bosses"
> >> on the outside of the tank to drill and tap for the fuel fittings, and
> >> braze or tig on the mounting brackets before doing the tinning so no
> >> heating will be required after the tinning process )- then just a good
> >> cleanup and paint with gasoline-proof paint. I learned years ago NOT
> >> to use spray Tremclad on fuel tanks - - - -
> >>
> >
> > Why not use aluminum ? easier to form and since you have TIG
> >capabilities ... I found that discarded late model GM truck aluminum
> >drive lines are just the right diameter for quite a few small projects ,
> >I'm using a section to build a ball mill for making black powder for
> >pyrotechnic projects .
>
>
> Aluminum is an option but the "domed" ends of the tank come ready
> made on the propane tanks and I would need to come up with the proper
> aluminum filler neck - not impossible - but I'd need to source a 1 1/2
> inch aluminum pipe nipple and I've got the steel one all made
> already - along with the brass cap and the mounting brackets for the 3
> 7/8 inch diameter tank along with the steel weld-on studs to mount it
> to the brackets. In other words steel will be a WHOLE LOT simpler.
>
> My experience with POR in the past was it did NOT like ethanol fuel.
> Apparently it has been reformulated for stage II fuels?? I'd only need
> about an ounce - - - so it's an option - but I like the idea of the
> "tinned" tank - - -

I don't know why this didn't go through yesterday.

Never used POR15 inside a gas tank but it never chipped off of my rear end. Biggest problem for you is that the smallest single can they sell is a pint for about $40. They have 4 oz cans but only as a sixpack for the same price as a quart, about $70ish. I've got about 3 unopened little cans left that I'll "never" use but I shudder to think what it would cost to ship it to you in Canada. They're 15 years old but still slosh when I shake them. If they did reformulate these are definitely the old stuff. If you want to go this way, maybe someone on ebay sells the little cans as singles?

Regards,
Carl

Amazon lists half pints of the Fuel Tank Sealer for $19.30, with free
shipping if your order reaches $35.
https://tinyurl.com/54yc2hn6