On Sun, 14 Apr 2024 13:08:35 -0400, Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net>
wrote:

>On Sat, 13 Apr 2024 21:39:58 -0400, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>
>wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 13 Apr 2024 18:16:20 -0400, Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>On Sat, 13 Apr 2024 11:45:50 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
>>>wrote:
>>>
>>>>On 4/13/2024 11:25 AM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
>>>>> On Sat, 13 Apr 2024 08:05:57 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
>>>>> <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> "Snag" wrote in message news:uvcbh7$2jb8r$1@dont-email.me...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On 4/12/2024 5:01 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
>>>>>>> On Fri, 12 Apr 2024 13:36:58 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> You probably want a bronze or stainless steel Drake two-piece Lock
>>>>>>> Nut:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> .<https://www.lok-mor.com/products/free-spinning/drake/>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Joe Gwinn
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Looks a lot like a 40 dollar solution for a 2 dollar problem , Joe ...
>>>>>> Snag
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ------------------------------------
>>>>>> I look for reliable methods using easily available hardware or auto store
>>>>>> products, such as doubled nuts. If necessary they can be modified on the
>>>>>> lathe or drilled for safety wire.
>>>>>
>>>>> The OP was complaining that nothing he tried really worked, causing
>>>>> danger to man and beast, and not so much about the cost of the
>>>>> hardware, and Drake Nuts are the gold standard. They simply don't
>>>>> shake loose. Finger tight causes noticeable locking.
>>>>>
>>>>> Failing that, I'd try a thick nut and a jam nut tightened hard against
>>>>> one another. And Loctite don't hurt. I recall from a study I read
>>>>> that one puts the jam nut under the thick nut for best shake
>>>>> resistance. Lok-Mor may have the study I recall, or it was an old
>>>>> NASA study.
>>>>>
>>>>> Joe Gwinn
>>>>
>>>>Well, I didn't actually say that.
>>>
>>>True, not those words, but this:
>>>
>>>"Somewhere on a long flat Southwest of Globe/Miami I glanced in the
>>>mirror to see one of the hooks for a front strap laying on the trailer
>>>deck. The strap broke where it went over the frame.  Fortunately I had
>>>left the winch cable tight or I might have lost the truck."
>>>
>>>Losing the truck on the highway is likely to cause a accident, and
>>>maybe a double accident (the departing truck may go sidewise,
>>>destabilizing the truck pulling or carrying everything). Free-range
>>>rolling truck tires are bad enough. Bloodcurdling.
>>>
>>>This would have terrified me for sure.
>>>
>>>
>>>> .... Just that two of the nuts came off
>>>>for no good reason. I did install regular Gr-8 nuts and lock washers
>>>>with red Permatex thread locker to finish my adventure. Afterwards it
>>>>made the trip up up to Globe/Miami over the mountains, down and back up
>>>>through Salt River Canyon, and then on up and down the grades into Show
>>>>Low. There I loaded a full size 3/4 ton diesel pickup and made the
>>>>reverse trip braking and engine braking up and down some modestly steep
>>>>inclines. Enough so that there were brake check areas and emergency
>>>>runaway pullouts.
>>>>
>>>>This morning I ordered a box of each of gr-8 lock washers and nuts. The
>>>>cost of which was about the same (a little less) as the couple items I
>>>>bought at the Tractor Supply store in Coolidge to make repairs. Before
>>>>I make another such trip I'll be replacing all the lock nuts with
>>>>regular GR-8 nuts and high strength thread locker. As near as I can
>>>>tell the threads on the u-bolts are fine and they do not appear to have
>>>>stretched, but of course I didn't clamp them up and measure them. Two
>>>>of the original nuts just failed to hold. The new nuts did spin easily
>>>>into place (which surprised me).
>>>>
>>>>These are a pair of six ton axles and they were not cheap. They were
>>>>just the closest to the correct size for the application that I could
>>>>find.
>>>>
>>>>I've got a fair amount of faith in liquid thread locker. I've used
>>>>Permatex, Vibratite, and of course Loc-Tite brands with good results
>>>>over the years.
>>>>
>>>>I'm not opposed to more expensive solutions. I just don't think its
>>>>necessary here. I did look at your link and I can see places it would
>>>>be useful.
>>>
>>>I would submit that compared to the cost of an accident, a few Drake
>>>Nuts are insignificant.
>>>
>>>
>>>By the way, Drake Nuts were invented in the 1910s, US 1,271,449.
>>>
>>>And the analysis I couldn't remember was published in July 1922, and
>>>did compare the Drake Nut with the thin jam nut with regular nut (with
>>>jam nut between the big nut and whatever is being clamped). Drake
>>>Nuts worked regardless, but the big nut and jam nut assembly would
>>>shake loose. But this was before Loctite; this ought to work. The
>>>distorted nuts were also analyzed, and didn't win.
>>>
>>>Joe
>> For suspension bolts I like flanged locknuts. NEVER split lock
>>washers!!.
>
>Agree - they are useless, as are the star lock washers.
>
>
>> A serated nut with attached serated washer (LoxNut) is the
>>cat's ass. WhizLock nuts are a close second - particularly when
>>installed with medium lock-tite.
>
>Google didn't find LoxNut - buried under food stuff. URL?
>
>WhizNut did work, and it's only for cases where the thing being
>clamped is a good bit softer than the nut.
><https://www.mcmaster.com/products/whiz-nuts/>
>
>
>>Fijilok nuts work very well on adjustable threaded linkage - better
>>than NyLok
>
>Fijilok not found, buried under irrelevant stuff.
>
>
>> Flanged side distortion or top distortion nuts work well too -
>>particularly with medium lock-tite.
>
>Do distorted nuts with loctite work better than plain nuts with
>loctite?
>
Can't beat "belt and suspenders" - but always MEDIUM thread lock - if
I need to get out the torch to release the thread lock I mayas well
burn the sucker off!!!
>
>>If you MUST use lock washers, Nord-Lock or Disk-Lock. Either one
>>requires 50% more torque to remove than the install torque (torque
>>stud to 100 lb/ft and it takes 150 to break it loose)
>
>
>Nord-Lock is very good. <https://www.nord-lock.com/en-us/>
>
>I had to look Disk-Lock up. <https://www.sherex.com/>
>
>It is the Nord-Lock system (whose patents must have expired by now),
>cloned and maybe improved. I would assume that it is also very good.
>
>But I do think that while expensive, Drake Nuts are a whole lot
>better. But this is the right conversation to be having.

Never seen a Drake before - ompressive.
Ever run into a Key-Lok? Equivalent to hitting the top thread with an
arc welder. That sucker is NEVER coming off - even if you want it
to!!!
>
>War story. A family member was towing a boat trailer, but had not
>attached the safety chains properly. If that trailer came loose,
>someone was going to die. Whereupon I put my foot down and made him
>use beefy threaded quick links.
>
><https://www.mcmaster.com/products/quick-links/>
>
>So, I'd also consider adding some safety chains.
>
>
>Joe Gwinn
I had a tent trailer jump off the ball once. Had good safety chains
crossed under the hitch but the toung jack took the abuse. It had a
rubber tire on it and by the time I got stopped it was worn to a cone
shape after attempting to drag the trailer off to the curb. From then
on I always BOLTED the hitch latch - using a nylock nut. Still don't
know how the clevis pin got out or why the latch released - I'm
CERTAIN I latched it - - - -