And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on the
rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got worse
but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more checking
and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on the '99
4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad that it's
such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it . Whatever , I
spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced and almost all
the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff that will make it
easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one went the other
ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today ... I really can't
complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and the bearing I just
replaced was OE .
I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with
catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and
back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .
--
Snag
Men don't protect women because they're weak .
We protect them because they're important .

On Tue, 3 Oct 2023 19:33:33 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

> And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on the
>rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got worse
>but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more checking
>and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on the '99
>4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad that it's
>such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it . Whatever , I
>spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced and almost all
>the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff that will make it
>easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one went the other
>ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today ... I really can't
>complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and the bearing I just
>replaced was OE .
> I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with
>catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and
>back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .
Let me guess - the right one?? Right front braring failure seems to
be most common and at 340000 miles I'd say you were getting close to
due. On a Ford or a Chebbie you'd likely be about ready for #3 or 4

On 10/3/2023 8:00 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Tue, 3 Oct 2023 19:33:33 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>
>> And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on the
>> rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got worse
>> but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more checking
>> and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on the '99
>> 4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad that it's
>> such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it . Whatever , I
>> spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced and almost all
>> the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff that will make it
>> easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one went the other
>> ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today ... I really can't
>> complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and the bearing I just
>> replaced was OE .
>> I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with
>> catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and
>> back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .
> Let me guess - the right one?? Right front braring failure seems to
> be most common and at 340000 miles I'd say you were getting close to
> due. On a Ford or a Chebbie you'd likely be about ready for #3 or 4
>

Nope, this one was on the left front . The same wheel that had a
lower ball joint failure* a couple of years ago in Memphis .

*That one was purely my fault . There were indicators of a problem that
I didn't recognize . I should have been researching the indications ...

The majority of problems I had today were from press setups . The
longer I have a hydraulic press* the more odds and ends I seem to
accumulate to make it adaptable to the task at hand . I need to add a
box for blocks etc .

*I recently upgraded the original HF 12T press with an air/hydraulic
20T bottle jack.
--
Snag
Men don't protect women because they're weak .
We protect them because they're important .

"Snag" wrote in message news:ufibsr$3qf4b$1@dont-email.me...

And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on the
rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got worse
but on right curves it disappeared.

----------------------------

I've had two wheel symptoms that turned out to be other than what I guessed.

The first was on the 91 Ford Ranger. I could feel a vibration in the
steering wheel at 30 and 60MPH. I suspected wheel balance and built a
balancer that supported the wheel adjustably close to its 3 dimensional
center of gravity, allowing high sensitivity. When spun it moved from the
level static to the wobbling dynamic balance position so I adjusted both.
The down side was that the balancing point wore quickly, but it did work
well for one balancing, then required remachining and readjusting.

This almost solved the vibration. While installing the wheel I happened to
move my head to a position that revealed that the top of the shock had
broken loose at its rusty mount, which was hidden behind a flange on the
spring and shock mount stamping. The factory manual specifies how to replace
the riveted spring mount with a bolted one.

The Honda made scraping/grinding noises when turning while driving, but not
when jacked up. After disassembling the brakes and rotor I found that the
bearing end play was well within spec; the cause was rust that had fallen
into the narrow gap between the wheel hub and knuckle, blowing it out cured
the problem. I think the rotor and dust shield may have amplified the
scraping sound. The test is driving with the windows open in built-up areas
where the buildings reflect back wheel and other noises.

A British classic car show displayed a poster lamenting the worries caused
by hearing abnormal sounds and wondering which of several usual suspects
needed service.

"Snag" wrote in message news:ufif8f$3r4cq$1@dont-email.me...

The majority of problems I had today were from press setups . The
longer I have a hydraulic press* the more odds and ends I seem to
accumulate to make it adaptable to the task at hand . I need to add a
box for blocks etc .

*I recently upgraded the original HF 12T press with an air/hydraulic
20T bottle jack.
Snag

-------------------------

One of my justifications for buying machine shop stuff was to make custom
repair parts and tooling. Since then I found that most car wear parts
weren't machined and I could borrow a lot of special tooling like ball joint
removers from Autozone, after cleaning up enough to drive there in the other
vehicle. Have you been able to make hydraulic press fixtures as needed?

Lawn and garden equipment is more easily repaired with custom machined parts
such as bronze bushings that replace stamped or molded plastic ones.

On Tue, 3 Oct 2023 19:33:33 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

> And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on the
>rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got worse
>but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more checking
>and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on the '99
>4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad that it's
>such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it . Whatever , I
>spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced and almost all
>the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff that will make it
>easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one went the other
>ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today ... I really can't
>complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and the bearing I just
>replaced was OE .
> I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with
>catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and
>back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .

I must say that if one intends to run a vehicle for that many miles,
it might be best to go to an airplane-style maintenance approach,
where all critical items are replaced on a fixed schedule chosen to
eliminate the possibility of in-service failures. There will still be
surprise failures, but far less often or consequential.

Having all maintenance being scheduled allows for many economies of
time and money.

Joe Gwinn

"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
news:6l5rhihk0edk7v3ldgm81ksqvd3avr42eu@4ax.com...

I must say that if one intends to run a vehicle for that many miles,
it might be best to go to an airplane-style maintenance approach,
where all critical items are replaced on a fixed schedule chosen to
eliminate the possibility of in-service failures. There will still be
surprise failures, but far less often or consequential.

Having all maintenance being scheduled allows for many economies of
time and money.

Joe Gwinn

---------------------------

I've tried that with mixed results. If the vehicle is old enough that only
aftermarket parts are available the originals may be more reliable, the
voltage regulator on my 91 Ford for example. After a spare one failed I put
the original regulator back in and just use the brushes from replacements.

Today I replaced the entire after-cat exhaust on my Honda, though only one
pipe was bad. The OEM catcon had been replaced earlier this year because its
rear flange rotted away. What is your experience with type 409 stainless
exhausts? I read that it's what factory ones are made from and may rust on
the surface, as the chromium content is lower than for 304.

On 10/4/2023 6:54 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Snag"  wrote in message news:ufif8f$3r4cq$1@dont-email.me...
>
>   The majority of problems I had today were from press setups . The
> longer I have a hydraulic press* the more odds and ends I seem to
> accumulate to make it adaptable to the task at hand . I need to add a
> box for blocks etc .
>
>   *I recently upgraded the original HF 12T press with an air/hydraulic
> 20T bottle jack.
> Snag
>
> -------------------------
>
> One of my justifications for buying machine shop stuff was to make
> custom repair parts and tooling. Since then I found that most car wear
> parts weren't machined and I could borrow a lot of special tooling like
> ball joint removers from Autozone, after cleaning up enough to drive
> there in the other vehicle. Have you been able to make hydraulic press
> fixtures as needed?
>

Yes , for the most part . I'm going to be buying some solid square
stock for when I replace the other side . What made this difficult is
having the brake disc shield in place and no way to remove it without
destroying it . Once I got the wheel hub out of the knuckle I could
remove it for the rest of the press work .
--
Snag
Men don't protect women because they're weak .
We protect them because they're important .

On Wed, 4 Oct 2023 13:14:37 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
<muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

>"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
>news:6l5rhihk0edk7v3ldgm81ksqvd3avr42eu@4ax.com...
>
>I must say that if one intends to run a vehicle for that many miles,
>it might be best to go to an airplane-style maintenance approach,
>where all critical items are replaced on a fixed schedule chosen to
>eliminate the possibility of in-service failures. There will still be
>surprise failures, but far less often or consequential.
>
>Having all maintenance being scheduled allows for many economies of
>time and money.
>
>Joe Gwinn
>
>---------------------------
>
>I've tried that with mixed results. If the vehicle is old enough that only
>aftermarket parts are available the originals may be more reliable, the
>voltage regulator on my 91 Ford for example. After a spare one failed I put
>the original regulator back in and just use the brushes from replacements.

I didn't have that experience, but then again I gave up on my old
Volvo at 150,000 miles because things were failing faster and faster
than I could fix them.

>Today I replaced the entire after-cat exhaust on my Honda, though only one
>pipe was bad. The OEM catcon had been replaced earlier this year because its
>rear flange rotted away. What is your experience with type 409 stainless
>exhausts? I read that it's what factory ones are made from and may rust on
>the surface, as the chromium content is lower than for 304.

I did install the aftermarket stainless steel version of that old
Volvo's exhaust system, and it never corroded, but I don't know what
alloy it was. Hmm. I'd guess 302, which I think was invented for just
such things.

I'd bet that fatigue cracks would eventually happen, but could be
repaired by welding and annealing.

Joe Gwinn

On 10/4/2023 11:50 AM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
> On Tue, 3 Oct 2023 19:33:33 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>
>> And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on the
>> rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got worse
>> but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more checking
>> and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on the '99
>> 4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad that it's
>> such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it . Whatever , I
>> spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced and almost all
>> the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff that will make it
>> easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one went the other
>> ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today ... I really can't
>> complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and the bearing I just
>> replaced was OE .
>> I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with
>> catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and
>> back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .
>
> I must say that if one intends to run a vehicle for that many miles,
> it might be best to go to an airplane-style maintenance approach,
> where all critical items are replaced on a fixed schedule chosen to
> eliminate the possibility of in-service failures. There will still be
> surprise failures, but far less often or consequential.
>
> Having all maintenance being scheduled allows for many economies of
> time and money.
>
> Joe Gwinn
>

This is true . But I'm a neophyte in extremely high mileage vehicles
.. Well , we did drive that '96 Corsica til IIRC around 248k ... But
anyway , I do all my own *work except automatic transmissions . I have a
well equipped machine shop , and I have the time to do it right . Let's
face it Joe , nobody cares about Snag's ass as much as Snag does . And
that goes double for Mrs Snag . And especially when it comes to my
motorcycles .

*I did pay someone else to install the "new" motor in the 4Runner . I
am totally not equipped to do that out here in the woods and I've seen
this guy's work .
--
Snag
Men don't protect women because they're weak .
We protect them because they're important .

On 10/4/2023 12:14 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Joe Gwinn"  wrote in message
> news:6l5rhihk0edk7v3ldgm81ksqvd3avr42eu@4ax.com...
>
> I must say that if one intends to run a vehicle for that many miles,
> it might be best to go to an airplane-style maintenance approach,
> where all critical items are replaced on a fixed schedule chosen to
> eliminate the possibility of in-service failures.  There will still be
> surprise failures, but far less often or consequential.
>
> Having all maintenance being scheduled allows for many economies of
> time and money.
>
> Joe Gwinn
>
> ---------------------------
>
> I've tried that with mixed results. If the vehicle is old enough that
> only aftermarket parts are available the originals may be more reliable,
> the voltage regulator on my 91 Ford for example. After a spare one
> failed I put the original regulator back in and just use the brushes
> from replacements.
>
> Today I replaced the entire after-cat exhaust on my Honda, though only
> one pipe was bad. The OEM catcon had been replaced earlier this year
> because its rear flange rotted away. What is your experience with type
> 409 stainless exhausts? I read that it's what factory ones are made from
> and may rust on the surface, as the chromium content is lower than for 304.

Any idea which alloy the shops that bend up their own systems use ? I
was given a custom system made for a '57 Chevy , which I cut up and
pieced together for a system for my '86 GMC pickup . Never really
thought about what it is .
--
Snag
Men don't protect women because they're weak .
We protect them because they're important .

"Snag" wrote in message news:ufkl65$h2ku$1@dont-email.me...

On 10/4/2023 12:14 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> What is your experience with type 409 stainless exhausts? I read that it's
> what factory ones are made from and may rust on the surface, as the
> chromium content is lower than for 304.

Any idea which alloy the shops that bend up their own systems use ? I
was given a custom system made for a '57 Chevy , which I cut up and
pieced together for a system for my '86 GMC pickup . Never really
thought about what it is .
Snag

----------------------------

I asked around when I need a 2" stainless tube for my tube furnace, to
temper a 5160 froe blade. They had no clue and it wasn't labeled. Amazon had
a long enough piece grade 304 for beer brewing, with flanged ends, for less
than the shop wanted to cut me a piece. It's a second with a defect in the
inner wall but the furnace shouldn't care.

"Snag" wrote in message news:ufkjun$gq84$1@dont-email.me...

> What made this difficult is having the brake disc shield in place and no
> way to remove it without destroying it . Once I got the wheel hub out of
> the knuckle I could remove it for the rest of the press work .
> Snag

The rotor dust shields on my Ford are galvanized sheet metal with the rim
flange formed with stovepipe crimping pliers.

On 10/4/2023 5:51 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Snag"  wrote in message news:ufkjun$gq84$1@dont-email.me...
>
>> What made this difficult is having the brake disc shield in place and
>> no way to remove it without destroying it . Once I got the wheel hub
>> out of the knuckle I could remove it for the rest of the press work .
>> Snag
>
> The rotor dust shields on my Ford are galvanized sheet metal with the
> rim flange formed with stovepipe crimping pliers.

Mine are original , and they're pristine . This 4Runner has spent
it's entire life here in Arkansas . Only place there's excessive rust is
the rear bumper . I should replace it ...
--
Snag
Men don't protect women because they're weak .
We protect them because they're important .

"Snag" wrote in message news:ufks4q$igef$1@dont-email.me...

Mine are original , and they're pristine . This 4Runner has spent
it's entire life here in Arkansas . Only place there's excessive rust is
the rear bumper . I should replace it ...
Snag

------------

Hopefully retirement means I won't have to drive on salty roads any more. Of
course there are holidays and appointments to keep, but now I can spray
under the car with a gutter cleaner to wash the salt off and not be as
concerned with how long the water will take to thaw and let me drive again.

On Wed, 04 Oct 2023 17:12:49 -0400, Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net>
wrote:

>On Wed, 4 Oct 2023 13:14:37 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
><muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message
>>news:6l5rhihk0edk7v3ldgm81ksqvd3avr42eu@4ax.com...
>>
>>I must say that if one intends to run a vehicle for that many miles,
>>it might be best to go to an airplane-style maintenance approach,
>>where all critical items are replaced on a fixed schedule chosen to
>>eliminate the possibility of in-service failures. There will still be
>>surprise failures, but far less often or consequential.
>>
>>Having all maintenance being scheduled allows for many economies of
>>time and money.
>>
>>Joe Gwinn
>>
>>---------------------------
>>
>>I've tried that with mixed results. If the vehicle is old enough that only
>>aftermarket parts are available the originals may be more reliable, the
>>voltage regulator on my 91 Ford for example. After a spare one failed I put
>>the original regulator back in and just use the brushes from replacements.
>
>I didn't have that experience, but then again I gave up on my old
>Volvo at 150,000 miles because things were failing faster and faster
>than I could fix them.
>
>
>>Today I replaced the entire after-cat exhaust on my Honda, though only one
>>pipe was bad. The OEM catcon had been replaced earlier this year because its
>>rear flange rotted away. What is your experience with type 409 stainless
>>exhausts? I read that it's what factory ones are made from and may rust on
>>the surface, as the chromium content is lower than for 304.
>
>I did install the aftermarket stainless steel version of that old
>Volvo's exhaust system, and it never corroded, but I don't know what
>alloy it was. Hmm. I'd guess 302, which I think was invented for just
>such things.
>
>I'd bet that fatigue cracks would eventually happen, but could be
>repaired by welding and annealing.
>
>Joe Gwinn
Often the "experienced" parts last longer than the new replacement
junk

On Wed, 4 Oct 2023 18:23:08 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

>On 10/4/2023 5:51 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> "Snag"  wrote in message news:ufkjun$gq84$1@dont-email.me...
>>
>>> What made this difficult is having the brake disc shield in place and
>>> no way to remove it without destroying it . Once I got the wheel hub
>>> out of the knuckle I could remove it for the rest of the press work .
>>> Snag
>>
>> The rotor dust shields on my Ford are galvanized sheet metal with the
>> rim flange formed with stovepipe crimping pliers.
>
> Mine are original , and they're pristine . This 4Runner has spent
>it's entire life here in Arkansas . Only place there's excessive rust is
>the rear bumper . I should replace it ...
I think those bumpers would eventually self destruct if the truck
was left long enough on the showroom floor. That was ONE part of the 4
runner that was junk (American made I believe)

Just like Ford Ranger bumpers. Mine is likely the only original 1996
ranger rear bumper in Canada that isn't rusted - and someone smashed
it for me 4 weeks ago. No OEM, used, or third party replacements
available from any known Canadian supplier - should be one arriving
from Rock Auto tomorrow.

It's a bugger when the insurance company wants to write off a
perfectly good 28 year old truck because the bumper is bent - - - -
$2800 repair estimate and no sheet metal samage or even a scratch on
the paint - - - I guess the bumper COULD be repaired - all the
brackets are like pretzels, 2 welds are torn out and it has about a 30
degree twist in it. The frame mounted hitch appears to have saved the
tailgate and tail lights and the back of the box - - -

"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
news:92fshilaacp08vlb4dvjhc13afpeqn8glo@4ax.com...

On Wed, 4 Oct 2023 18:23:08 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Mine are original , and they're pristine . This 4Runner has spent
>it's entire life here in Arkansas . Only place there's excessive rust is
>the rear bumper . I should replace it ...
I think those bumpers would eventually self destruct if the truck
was left long enough on the showroom floor. That was ONE part of the 4
runner that was junk (American made I believe)

Just like Ford Ranger bumpers. Mine is likely the only original 1996
ranger rear bumper in Canada that isn't rusted - and someone smashed
it for me 4 weeks ago. No OEM, used, or third party replacements
available from any known Canadian supplier - should be one arriving
from Rock Auto tomorrow.
------------------------------------------

Toyotas used to have a terrible rust problem here, reputedly from
accumulating contamination in the recycled steel they used. The engines
never wore out because they didn't have a chance to. Other Japanese makes
weren't much better. Apparently the conditions that make steel good for
forming auto bodies aren't the best for other reasons. Google isn't
responding well to requests.

I sandblasted the rust from my 91 Ranger's rear bumper well over a decade
ago and SEM black trim paint has protected it since.

Today's rustout problem: I'm running out of empty beer cans to press and
clamp into models of the rear wheel well curves and bends.

"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
news:92fshilaacp08vlb4dvjhc13afpeqn8glo@4ax.com...

In NH a 2x6 hardwood plank or beam is acceptable as a replacement bumper.

https://casetext.com/regulation/new-hampshire-administrative-code/title-saf-department-of-safety/subtitle-saf-c-commissioner-department-of-safety/chapter-saf-c-3200-official-motor-vehicle-inspection-requirements/part-saf-c-3221-vehicle-body-or-chassis/section-saf-c-322105-wooden-bumpers

Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> on Tue, 3 Oct 2023 20:30:51 -0500 typed in
rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>On 10/3/2023 8:00 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>> On Tue, 3 Oct 2023 19:33:33 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>>
>>> And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on the
>>> rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got worse
>>> but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more checking
>>> and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on the '99
>>> 4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad that it's
>>> such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it . Whatever , I
>>> spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced and almost all
>>> the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff that will make it
>>> easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one went the other
>>> ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today ... I really can't
>>> complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and the bearing I just
>>> replaced was OE .
>>> I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with
>>> catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and
>>> back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .
>> Let me guess - the right one?? Right front braring failure seems to
>> be most common and at 340000 miles I'd say you were getting close to
>> due. On a Ford or a Chebbie you'd likely be about ready for #3 or 4
>>
>
> Nope, this one was on the left front . The same wheel that had a
>lower ball joint failure* a couple of years ago in Memphis .
>
>*That one was purely my fault . There were indicators of a problem that
>I didn't recognize . I should have been researching the indications ...
>
> The majority of problems I had today were from press setups . The
>longer I have a hydraulic press* the more odds and ends I seem to
>accumulate to make it adaptable to the task at hand . I need to add a
>box for blocks etc .
>
> *I recently upgraded the original HF 12T press with an air/hydraulic
>20T bottle jack.

Verb Sap - if the left one is going, might as well replace the
right one while you are at it.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

On 10/5/2023 11:45 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Clare Snyder"  wrote in message
> news:92fshilaacp08vlb4dvjhc13afpeqn8glo@4ax.com...
>
> In NH a 2x6 hardwood plank or beam is acceptable as a replacement bumper.
>
> https://casetext.com/regulation/new-hampshire-administrative-code/title-saf-department-of-safety/subtitle-saf-c-commissioner-department-of-safety/chapter-saf-c-3200-official-motor-vehicle-inspection-requirements/part-saf-c-3221-vehicle-body-or-chassis/section-saf-c-322105-wooden-bumpers
>

I ran a wooden bumper on my '58 Chevy work/play truck in Tennessee
for years without any problems . It complemented the home built wooden
flat bed quite nicely if I do say so myself .
--
Snag
Men don't protect women because they're weak .
We protect them because they're important .

On 10/5/2023 1:08 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
> Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> on Tue, 3 Oct 2023 20:30:51 -0500 typed in
> rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>> On 10/3/2023 8:00 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>>> On Tue, 3 Oct 2023 19:33:33 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on the
>>>> rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got worse
>>>> but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more checking
>>>> and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on the '99
>>>> 4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad that it's
>>>> such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it . Whatever , I
>>>> spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced and almost all
>>>> the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff that will make it
>>>> easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one went the other
>>>> ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today ... I really can't
>>>> complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and the bearing I just
>>>> replaced was OE .
>>>> I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with
>>>> catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and
>>>> back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .
>>> Let me guess - the right one?? Right front braring failure seems to
>>> be most common and at 340000 miles I'd say you were getting close to
>>> due. On a Ford or a Chebbie you'd likely be about ready for #3 or 4
>>>
>>
>> Nope, this one was on the left front . The same wheel that had a
>> lower ball joint failure* a couple of years ago in Memphis .
>>
>> *That one was purely my fault . There were indicators of a problem that
>> I didn't recognize . I should have been researching the indications ...
>>
>> The majority of problems I had today were from press setups . The
>> longer I have a hydraulic press* the more odds and ends I seem to
>> accumulate to make it adaptable to the task at hand . I need to add a
>> box for blocks etc .
>>
>> *I recently upgraded the original HF 12T press with an air/hydraulic
>> 20T bottle jack.
>
> Verb Sap - if the left one is going, might as well replace the
> right one while you are at it.
>

Already bought the parts . I need some lengths of square steel bar
for better press fixturing before I do that one . It's still tight , I
checked . I think a ball joint failure a couple years back might have
had something to do with this failure .
--
Snag
Men don't protect women because they're weak .
We protect them because they're important .

"Snag" wrote in message news:ufn210$13cfm$1@dont-email.me...

> I need some lengths of square steel bar for better press fixturing before
> I do that one.

That's difficult to find as scrap and damaging to good stock. I have a rusty
farm wagon axle that may be sacrificed, the rust pit pattern looks more like
steel than wrought iron to me, there's no sign of a grain. I saved the main
bearing caps from a scrapped Vega engine as press blocks.

Milling machine table clamp sets have parts that might serve as press
blocks.

On 10/5/2023 3:59 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Snag"  wrote in message news:ufn210$13cfm$1@dont-email.me...
>
>> I need some lengths of square steel bar for better press fixturing
>> before I do that one.
>
> That's difficult to find as scrap and damaging to good stock. I have a
> rusty farm wagon axle that may be sacrificed, the rust pit pattern looks
> more like steel than wrought iron to me, there's no sign of a grain. I
> saved the main bearing caps from a scrapped Vega engine as press blocks.
>
> Milling machine table clamp sets have parts that might serve as press
> blocks.
>
>

I usually need rounds for pressing bearings and the like . This time I
also need longer pieces to get around the brake disc shield . Talked to
my neighbor earlier this evening he thinks he has some 1 1/4 square
stock . That along with the 2 x 1/2" I have and some sections of square
tube should make this one a lot easier than the first one . Experience
is a great teacher ...
--
Snag
Men don't protect women because they're weak .
We protect them because they're important .